Cream puffs are a pastry chef's calling card. Vol.5〈Okashiya Ucchi〉

The cream is packed with the patissier's attention to detail. From artisans who maintain the flavor of a long-established Western confectionery shop to up-and-coming chefs, we asked shops with a reputation for their cream puffs about the thoughts they put into their creations. Vol.4 is here.

First published in BRUTUS No. 931, "I love custard, after all." (Published January 15, 2021)

Photo: Atushi Kondo / Text: Yuko Saito / Styling: Misa Nishizaki / Food: Namie Omi

The cream that conveys the egg flavor is made with organic whole eggs.

There's shortcake without fruit, fresh chocolate without fresh cream, and two types of pudding made with different eggs...

Since opening in September 2019, Uchiyama Yusuke, also known as "Ucchi," has been attracting attention for his unconventional sweets making, and of course, his cream puffs are no exception.

The cream is white, creating a striking contrast with the deep brown of the choux pastry. The eggs are free-range organic Shinkaran eggs. They also use whole eggs, not egg yolks.

Cream puff (Shinka Ran) 520 yen (diameter 8cm, height 5.5cm, weight 95g).
Cream puff (Shinka Ran) 520 yen (diameter 8cm, height 5.5cm, weight 95g).

"It's white and smooth, but you can really taste the egg. Eggs have more than just the yolk; the egg whites have their own unique aroma and flavor. By using whole eggs, I hope people can learn what kind of taste an egg has."

Not only does it not contain vanilla beans or cream, but it also uses low-fat milk and a minimum amount of flour. The cooking time is also amazingly short, with just one boil. "If you cook it for a long time, the cream flavor may become richer, but the aroma and flavor of the eggs will disappear."

Uchiyama, who worked as a pastry chef at a restaurant in France, returned to Japan and worked at the Japanese confectionery shop Ikkoan, wanting to learn more about Japanese sweets.

"The red bean paste at our shop is made from carefully prepared azuki beans, and has an exceptionally delicious azuki bean flavor. What's more, the ingredients are just sugar, water, and a little bit of salt. I want to make sweets that use minimal ingredients and still allow you to taste the ingredients."

The final aftertaste, in which the choux pastry and cream disappear into one, is indeed reminiscent of Japanese sweets. For Uchiyama, custard is red bean paste.

Cream puffs are a pastry chef's calling card. Vol.1〈AU BON VIEUX TEMPS〉

Cream puffs are a pastry chef's calling card. Vol.2〈West Aoyama Garden〉

Cream puffs are a pastry chef's calling card. Vol.3〈Pastry Workshop Rusurusu〉

Cream puffs are a pastry chef's calling card. Vol.4〈Equal〉

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