"He taught me the importance of being particular" - Actor Hayato Isomura, the parfait that made me

Did you know that Hayato Isomura, who has made remarkable progress as an actor with a string of appearances in popular productions, once made parfaits? One day, he took a break from acting and visited the shop of his former master.

First published in: BRUTUS No. 1009 "Really Delicious Ice Cream" (released June 3, 2024)

photo: Tetsuo Kashiwada / styling: Satoshi Kamei / hair: Tomokatsu Sato / text: Yuko Saito

"I still can't forget how delicious it was. It was the first time in my life that I had ever savored a parfait like that. I still haven't come across anything that surpassed it. Ah, just talking about it is making me want to eat one."

Actor Hayato Isomura, whose acclaim has been rising, including winning the Japan Academy Award for Best Supporting Actor for his role in the film "Moon" two years ago, says that the best ice cream dish he's ever had is the Nakanoya Warabimochi and Shiratama Dango Parfait at Cafe Nakanoya in Machida, Tokyo.

Cafe Nakanoya is a cafe that created a sensation when its manager, Ikuma Mori, came up with one unconventional parfait after another, such as sticking fruit to the side of the glass or flattening the surface. In fact, Isomura-san worked as a staff member there making parfaits during his university days. On this day, his wish came true as he went to L'Atelier A Ma Façon in Kaminoge, Tokyo, which is currently run by Mori-san.

As soon as he saw his former master, dressed in all black, welcoming him in front of the store, he exclaimed, "Wow, he hasn't changed at all," and was instantly transported back in time, despite the 12-year gap.

"I thought you wouldn't remember," Mori said, inviting me inside. "These, these, these antique glasses were also available back then. The atmosphere of the shop is completely different, but... it brings back memories." And then, at last, the 2024 version of the aforementioned Nakanoya Warabimochi and Shiratama Dango Parfait appeared.

Nakanoya Warabimochi and Shiratama Dango Parfait at L'Atelier A Ma Façon in Kaminoge
A parfait that Isomura-san remembers fondly.
Nakanoya Warabimochi and Shiratama Dango Parfait: 2,420 yen. This is also the first parfait created by Mori. The 2024 reissue will include jelly and ganache!

As the parfait from his memories appeared dramatically, billowing with smoke, Isomura was taken aback and exclaimed, "Wait a minute. This is amazing! It's like the world of the Terminator." However, Mori told him, "The presentation before eating is also important nowadays. It has evolved. But even though the glass and the other parts are different, the black sesame ice cream, warabi mochi, and shiratama dango remain the same." As he continued to eat, Isomura said, "Indeed! It's a nostalgic taste. I love this black sesame ice cream so much that I used to buy vanilla ice cream, mix in black sesame seeds, and pour brown sugar syrup over it to try making it at home."

Actor Hayato Isomura
It took about a year for him to master the art of making a parfait, starting with the process of topping it with shiratama dumplings. "This is it. This is definitely it!"

According to Mori, the appeal of parfaits is not just the appearance, taste, and texture, but also the ability to create layers of temperature, something that cakes don't have. He says he especially values the ice cream that is the main ingredient.

"I'm so happy!" exclaimed Isomura, who was overjoyed to be reunited with the long-awaited parfait, but Mori had another surprise for her. For Isomura, who was meeting him for the first time in 12 years, Mori had created a special parfait: "Lychee and Mango Quatre Epices Parfait with Cardamom Scent."

Lychee and mango quatre epices parfait with cardamom scent from L'Atelier A Ma Façon in Kaminoge
A parfait that Chef Mori presents to Isomura.
Lychee & Mango Quatre Epices Parfait with Cardamom Scent: 4,950 yen. The crumble is flavored with anise, nutmeg, and cinnamon, and the sauce at the bottom is flavored with cardamom, with the four flavors coming together at the end. The flower is mango pulp, and underneath is a lychee parfait and milky berry fermented ice cream. *May not be available depending on fruit availability.

As Mori served the parfait, she asked, "We've added fermented ice cream and made it more acrobatic and artistic, but... don't you remember the parfait that ended with four different spices?" Mori replied, "Oh, I remember! But the mango wasn't shaped like a flower like this, was it? Amazing, Mori, after 12 years your parfait has become a work of art! The flavor has been enhanced, too, and it's so delicious I can't put it into words. It was the first time I'd had a memory revived by the taste and aroma."

And then, happily, I ate it all in one go.

"Mori's parfaits have always been original and extremely delicate. He puts so much time and effort into each and every component, and the parfait is the culmination of that. That's why I worked so hard to learn them. What's so cool about Mori is that he is so particular about the things he loves. I've been influenced by him in so many ways, from cooking, tableware, cars, to clothes. So today, seeing him continue to be as particular as ever, evolving more freely, without changing the core of the parfait, was really encouraging. The energy to keep going is necessary for actors too."

It was a precious moment in between the busy days of continuing work. "I was able to taste something that holds precious memories, so I will not forget my original intentions and will work even harder from tomorrow!"

Hayato Isomura and Ikuma Mori, manager of L'Atelier A Ma Façon
"Yuto learned his job very quickly and was a mood maker in the workplace," says Mori.

Skipper knit 37,400 yen (Captain Sunshine TEL: 03-6277-2193), silk scarf 23,100 yen (Yugen/Ideas TEL: 03-6869-4279), linen easy pants 68,200 yen (Helil/Nishinoya TEL: 03-6434-0983), other items are stylist's personal items

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