Many chefs are attracted to the fresh vegetables and seafood. Obama Onsen, Nagasaki, Unzen Onsen

Unzen Onsen, "of the mountains," and Obama Onsen, "of the sea." These two hot springs are located in Obama Town, Unzen City, in the southern part of Nagasaki Prefecture. Now, chefs who create delicious dishes, attracted by the vegetables and fresh seafood grown in this blessed natural environment, are moving to this area one after another. Now is the time to go on a hot spring trip to savor the delicious delicacies of the sea and the highlands.

photo: Norio Kidera / text: Michiko P. Watanabe

Enjoy the difference between the blessed land of Obama and Unzen

Let's start with Obama Onsen. Perhaps it's the power of the magma chamber at the bottom of Tachibana Bay that draws people who produce delicious food to the area, as if drawn there. Looking down on Tachibana Bay from a small hill, it's a tranquil landscape where you can almost hear the song "Spring Sea." You might wonder how such a mass of energy can be found in this beautiful sea, but when you hear that there are about 30 hot springs gushing out with hot water that reaches a maximum temperature of 105°C, it makes sense.

Tachibana Bay, Nagasaki
Located on the west side of the Shimabara Peninsula, Tachibana Bay is a beautifully curved caldera bay and a scenic spot that has been selected as one of Japan's 100 most scenic spots. If you climb up to the high ground, you can see the peak of Mount Unzen Fugen to your left. On the seabed lies a high-temperature, high-pressure magma chamber that releases incredible energy, and is the source of the steam from hell. Tachibana Bay is a major producer of anchovies, which are the raw material for dried sardines, and is also a mecca for coastal fishing. The coastal waters from the Ariake Sea mix with ocean water, nurturing a wide variety of fish.

With the sea and mountains close by and many sloping areas, people have lived here since ancient times by building farmland and rice paddies using stone walls. Thanks to the volcanic activity of Mount Fugen, the soil is diverse. Agriculture is thriving, making good use of this diversity. The beautiful sea also means that there is an abundance of seafood. In other words, it is a place blessed with ingredients for every season.

What's more, the area is home to a miraculous farmer, Iwasaki Masatoshi, who has been steadily cultivating around 80 varieties of native vegetables received from all over the country for 40 years, collecting his own seeds and passing them on to the future. Falling in love with the vegetables and inspired by Iwasaki's seed-collecting philosophy, he moved here. Chikashi Okutsuji is currently working to pass on the wonders of these vegetables in various ways, including through his direct sales store, Tanet.

Inside Nagasaki's "Taneto Organic Direct Sales Store"
At the organic direct sales store Tanet, farmers take turns delivering and setting up vegetables.

Chef Harakawa Shinichiro of Beard was also one of those who was shocked by Iwasaki's vegetables. He had been impressed by them in Tokyo, but the power of the vegetables he ate in Obama was incredible. "Maybe the vegetables were tired after traveling to Tokyo." Vegetables that embodied the power of the earth. With just the vegetables, you can be fully satisfied. This was also the deciding factor in his decision to move.

Meanwhile, Unzen Onsen has a "Hell Zone" where you'll find scenes that make you think you're in the real hell. In over 30 hells, including Daikyoukan Hell and Seishichi Hell, you can see billowing steam and feel the earth moving in the womb. During the time when Christianity was banned, Christians were tortured in the hells, and there are even crosses to commemorate martyrs. A cruel and sad history is also hidden here.

Nagasaki Seishichi Hell
One of the more than 30 hells, Kiyoshichi Hell, was named after the anecdote that it began erupting around the time that the hidden Christian Kiyoshichi was executed. The smell of sulfur fills the air, making it truly hellish.

The Unzen Kanko Hotel is a classic hotel designated as a national tangible cultural property, retaining traces of its past as a summer resort for foreigners. A relaxing stay here while reminiscing on the past is sure to create fond memories.

Take a trip to hot springs to savor the delicious delicacies of the sea and highlands

Obama Onsen is located by the sea, while Unzen Onsen is located on the plateau. The different topography means that the temperament of the residents is also different. The different specialty dishes are also interesting. If you have the chance, you should try both to the fullest. In the plateau, you can enjoy sophisticated and slightly fashionable food such as cheesecake and Western cuisine. It's a bit disappointing that there aren't many places to eat and drink at night, but you can recharge your batteries at a hotel or inn.

Nagasaki〈Locanda del Campo〉Fried Akou
Locanda del Campo is a local Italian restaurant. They serve straw-smoked fried Akou, a sauce of new rice and new ginger, fried Akebia vines and fermented green lemon. They also serve sake made with our rice.

In Obama, you can enjoy hot spring steaming, where ingredients and bread purchased from local fishmongers and tofu shops are steamed, or you can enjoy snacks and highballs at a traditional Japanese izakaya, or snacks and pasta made with local ingredients at a wine bar with a selection of natural wines. You can enjoy a lively and friendly time with the locals.

Both are fun and both are delicious. Obama Town in Unzen City is truly a great place.

Savor the delicacies of the sea and highlands! 19 must-visit spots in Obama Onsen and Unzen Onsen, Nagasaki

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