Visit new Kyoto bars that tourists haven't discovered yet: <coimo wine & cafe>, <Toyokoya>, and <Targis>

Kyoto is a city that attracts people from all over the world and is home to many famous restaurants overflowing with customers. That's why we're focusing on newcomers that tourists haven't noticed yet, restaurants that have only been open for a year or two. Now is the time to relax and mingle with locals in a space that embodies the unique personalities of the restaurant owners, a city unique to Kyoto.

First published in BRUTUS No. 1005, "Travel to Japanese Bars" (published April 1, 2024)

photo: Yoshiko Watanabe / text: Mako Yamato

Over the past few years, many people have discovered the comfort of starting a drink while it's still light out. In response to this demand, more and more establishments in Kyoto are opening from 2 or 3 p.m., and it's no longer unusual. The variety of options, from sweets to teppanyaki to plant-based options, is also appealing.

Relax in the afternoon with three different dishes and drinks

Koimo Wine and Cafe, located in Ichijoji, a convenient spot to visit on the Eiden line, is open from 3pm and welcomes you with natural wine and delicious snacks. Owner Junko Takahashi spent around 10 years as a pastry chef in Thailand, and after returning to Japan, she discovered natural wine. After working at a bakery specializing in natural yeast bread, she opened a shop stocking only her favorite wines.

The natural wines on offer are casual and easy to drink by the glass, and the food ranges from locally prepared Thai dishes like som tam to homemade natural yeast bread and sweets. Photographs by Takahashi's sister, photographer Yoko Takahashi, decorate the space.

Combined with the unpretentious atmosphere created by the owner, even if it's your first time, you'll feel like you've been there many times. In the early hours, the light streaming in through the west-facing windows is pleasant and relaxing. This is a place you'll want to enjoy to the fullest on your day off.

When you enter a restaurant, you're sure to meet someone in the food and beverage industry. It's not uncommon for all 10 seats to be filled by fellow restaurant workers. One restaurant that is especially beloved by such people is Toyokoya in Kawaramachi Nijo. The owner, who runs the restaurant single-handedly, quickly preparing food on a hot plate at the counter, is not "Toyoko" but Nao Yoneda.

"My grandmother runs a teppanyaki restaurant in Fushimi Ward. Ever since I was in nursery school, I would come home and spend my time at the restaurant, helping out. I thought that if I were to open my own restaurant, teppanyaki would be a must. Toyoko is my grandmother's name," she told us with a smile.

The dishes, including simmered dishes, are prepared by the grandmother. Red sausages, fried noodles, and the popular rolled omelet are skillfully cooked on the hot plate. In between, the waiters chat with the regulars and sometimes even toast. They open at 2pm, with last orders at 8pm. It feels a little early, but Yoneda says he wants to go out on the town himself. There's a comfortable atmosphere that makes sense, and it's easy to understand why someone once said that this izakaya is like a Kyoto public bathhouse.

Targis, located in Yoshida Area where Kyoto University is located, opens at 3pm. Owner Takenori Kiyama began his culinary career at the renowned meat restaurant Le Quattro Zième, but discovered plant-based cuisine during the COVID-19 pandemic. He has a unique background, having opened a restaurant selling plant-based cuisine and natural wine. However, he continues to cherish the excellent compatibility between cooking and natural wine that he learned during his training.

Using mainly vibrant vegetables grown without or with reduced amounts of pesticides in the Kyoto area, he creates simple yet well-balanced dishes such as a gratin with rich flavor from cashew nut milk and mapo tofu with added umami from log-grown shiitake mushrooms.

You can get an idea of the flavor from the story of someone who asked, "Is this place plant-based?" after about the fifth time they came.

SHARE ON

FEATURED MOVIES
Featured Videos

BRUTUS
OFFICIAL SNS
Brutus Official SNS

FEATURED MOVIES
Featured Videos