The taste of the sake easily exceeds what you would imagine in a bar. Ise (Mukai Sake no Mise)

Ise has a bar worthy of its sacred location. After cleansing your soul at Ise Grand Shrine, which you've always wanted to visit, fill your clear stomach with local sake and cuisine. Step through the white noren curtains and embark on a magnificent detour on your pilgrimage to Ise.

First published in BRUTUS No. 1005, "Travel to Japanese Bars" (published April 1, 2024)

photo: Akinobu Maeda / text: Tamio Ogasawara

Geographically, if Ichigatsuya is the Yokozuna of the west of Ise, then Mukai Sake Shop is the Yokozuna of the east.

Everyone is equal when it comes to good sake and conversation. A visit to Ise's sacred bar, Ichigatsuya

In a taxi I caught on my way to the nearby Inner Shrine of Ise Grand Shrine, I heard the saying, "You're called to Ise Shrine," and Mukai Sake no Mise was certainly a bar that called out to drinkers. Mukai Tomoaki, the fourth-generation owner, trained at the renowned Japanese restaurant Nadaman in Osaka, returned to Ise at the age of 23, and took over the restaurant 20 years ago.

The cuisine is based on "things you don't eat at home," and the fish-focused dishes are all carefully prepared and tender, yet offer a complex flavor that goes beyond just Japanese cuisine. The sardines pickled in aged rice vinegar and sweet vinegar are delicious to look at and have a mellow taste, while the yellowtail and scallion nuta (simmered sardines) uses the tail, which has a lot of blood in it, and is tossed in vinegar and miso, making it a perfect match with sake. For sake, I ordered a warm Nihonsakari from Hyogo, which has been a family business since the second generation.

Tonboshibi (albacore tuna), which is in season now, is served with chunks of fatty belly and skin, drizzled with Tosa vinegar, roasted seaweed vinegar, wasabi, and soy sauce. The five flavors blend together, giving the illusion of eating sushi, even though it's sashimi. It's strange.

The fourth-generation owner's specialty is not just to make the most of fresh ingredients, but also to attack them with a variety of curveballs reminiscent of Darvish. The atmosphere is tranquil, and even the dishes are delicious. "The way the umami is brought out incorporates Italian techniques," he says, and there is still a lot to be discovered, but a bar with such meticulous, rich flavors would be one that would draw anyone.

Exterior of Ise's Mukai Sake no Mise
When the seats are filled, a "full" sign is posted on the sign, so it's easy to tell. But I don't give up and I still show up.

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