Geographically, if Ichigatsuya is the Yokozuna of the west of Ise, then Mukai Sake Shop is the Yokozuna of the east.
In a taxi I caught on my way to the nearby Inner Shrine of Ise Grand Shrine, I heard the saying, "You're called to Ise Shrine," and Mukai Sake no Mise was certainly a bar that called out to drinkers. Mukai Tomoaki, the fourth-generation owner, trained at the renowned Japanese restaurant Nadaman in Osaka, returned to Ise at the age of 23, and took over the restaurant 20 years ago.
The cuisine is based on "things you don't eat at home," and the fish-focused dishes are all carefully prepared and tender, yet offer a complex flavor that goes beyond just Japanese cuisine. The sardines pickled in aged rice vinegar and sweet vinegar are delicious to look at and have a mellow taste, while the yellowtail and scallion nuta (simmered sardines) uses the tail, which has a lot of blood in it, and is tossed in vinegar and miso, making it a perfect match with sake. For sake, I ordered a warm Nihonsakari from Hyogo, which has been a family business since the second generation.
Tonboshibi (albacore tuna), which is in season now, is served with chunks of fatty belly and skin, drizzled with Tosa vinegar, roasted seaweed vinegar, wasabi, and soy sauce. The five flavors blend together, giving the illusion of eating sushi, even though it's sashimi. It's strange.
The fourth-generation owner's specialty is not just to make the most of fresh ingredients, but also to attack them with a variety of curveballs reminiscent of Darvish. The atmosphere is tranquil, and even the dishes are delicious. "The way the umami is brought out incorporates Italian techniques," he says, and there is still a lot to be discovered, but a bar with such meticulous, rich flavors would be one that would draw anyone.





