Everyone is equal when it comes to good sake and conversation. A visit to Ise's sacred bar, Ichigatsuya

Ise has a bar worthy of its sacred location. After cleansing your soul at Ise Grand Shrine, which you've always wanted to visit, fill your clear stomach with local sake and cuisine. Step through the white noren curtains and embark on a magnificent detour on your pilgrimage to Ise.

This article is featured in the BRUTUS issue "Japanese Bars You'll Want to Visit," which is now on sale.

photo: Akinobu Maeda / text: Tamio Ogasawara

If you take the Kintetsu Limited Express or JR Rapid from Furuya Station, you'll arrive at Iseshi Station, where Ise Grand Shrine is located, in about an hour and a half. The shrine is made up of two shrines, Geku and Naiku, and you can walk to Geku from the station, so as per the custom of "starting your pilgrimage at Ise Shrine from Geku," you can head there as soon as you arrive. This is because the opening time of our destination, Ichigetsuya, is early, at 2pm. Even before opening time, regular customers are constantly being drawn through the door, and the owner's vibrant, energetic voice echoes throughout the store. "The usual will do, right?"

Ise Bar Ichigatsuya
The reason why the noren curtain is not hung when the store opens at 2pm is because it is already bustling before opening time. The store only hangs the noren curtain when asked to do so by customers, but there are also days when the curtain is not hung at all.

The owner is Morita Kazuya, the fourth generation owner. "I cook in my own style, but I won't serve anything unless it's something I like. Speed is also important, so I don't want to keep customers waiting when they've come to drink. That's why I don't answer the phone very often."

The chef calculates the bill on an abacus without removing the plates and cups from the table.

The phone was ringing like background music, but the more I drank the shochu mixed with hot water that was poured over me, the less I paid attention to it.

The shochu we chose was "EIKI," made by Akafuku (a subsidiary of Iseman), a specialty of Ise. We ordered fried horse mackerel and seaweed vinegar and miso, which caught our eye on the menu. We also enjoyed a dish of yudofu (boiled tofu) topped with dashi soy sauce, green onions, and bonito flakes, which izakaya explorer Kazuhiko Ota called one of Japan's top three izakayas, with "Azumajishi" (Motosaka Sake Brewery, Mie Prefecture), which is said to go well with warm sake.

All of the dishes are standard pub menu items, nothing special, but they're delicious. That's what's great about them. You can clearly see that the conversation with the chef is also a way to accompany the drinks. Even though it was my first time there, after 20 minutes I felt like a regular, which must be thanks to the chef's thoughtfulness.

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