Kyoto's "A shop with space, people with space": Astarte Shosabo, Miyukicho Sanjo

Even great spaces and services cannot be enjoyed unless both the provider and the recipient are in a relaxed state of mind. This is especially true for the owners of renowned shops that give us experiences that are hard to find anywhere else. We spoke to the owner of Astarte Shosabo, a secondhand bookstore and coffee bar in Miyuki-cho Sanjo, about the nature of his shop and the "white space of Kyoto."

photo: Shoko Hara / text: Atsushi Takeuchi

A legendary secondhand bookstore quietly taken over by a shop owner in his twenties

Even in Kyoto, a city full of second-hand bookstores, Astarte Shobo stands out as a unique establishment. It is located in a room in a building and has no sign. Upon stepping inside, one is greeted by an interior that reflects the owner's aesthetic sense and bookshelves filled with books of surrealism and fantasy literature.

It was an antiquated secondhand bookstore, far removed from the hustle and bustle of the city, but the owner passed away in 2015. His wife, who took over, was also elderly, and at the end of 2012, it was announced that the store would close. The store's space and collection was inherited by Saijo Go. Saijo, who already runs two late-night cafes in Kyoto, Shinshinshin and Tamon, had previously worked part-time at a secondhand bookstore while studying at Kyoto University's Faculty of Letters.

Inside Astarte Shosabo in Kyoto
This corner is home to a collection of books and prints by Kaneko Kuniyoshi, a painter with a close relationship with Astarte Shobo.

"At my previous two stores, I was also conscious of wanting to create spaces where people could read books at their leisure, but Astarte's collection contains many books that are difficult to collect on your own. This will allow you to immerse yourself in a richer world of books," says Saijo.

While continuing to operate as a secondhand bookstore, the store has also been remodeled to function as a coffee bar, stocking coffee and whiskeys. In addition, the store has adopted the natural customer service style that was cultivated in the late-night cafe business.

"In terms of comfort, a moderate amount of relaxed atmosphere is important. We can't do the same thing as the original store, and even though the storefront may seem small, I want to make it a place that can welcome all kinds of people." As the store gradually expands its collection of accessible books, a new type of Astarte has begun under Saijo.

Inside Astarte Shosabo in Kyoto
The inside of the store makes it impossible to see what is going on outside, and the background music is played at a very low volume.

Go Saijo talks about the unseen aspects of Kyoto

Even in the same place, there is a feeling that can only be experienced at night.

I wanted a place where I could get lost alone late at night, so I started a late-night cafe while I was still a student. I like the mysterious atmosphere that only comes late at night, something that you don't see during the day when society is moving. Just walking down Imadegawa Street at night gives you the feeling that time has stopped.

Imadegawa Street in Kyoto
Imadegawa-dori is silent late at night. Imadegawa-dori is one of Kyoto's major streets, running east to west in a grid pattern. It starts in the west around Kitano-Hakubaicho, near Ritsumeikan University, passes between Doshisha University and the Kyoto Imperial Palace, crosses the Kamo River, passes in front of Kyoto University, and ends in the east just next to Ginkakuji Temple. It's also a route used by university students to get to school, but late at night, especially if you head east past Hyakumanben Intersection and head towards the area around Late Night Cafe Shinshinshin, you'll be enveloped in a surprisingly tranquil atmosphere. Just walking down the street with the view of Mount Daimonji right in front of you is sure to bring a moment of tranquility to your soul.

I'm also drawn to historical buildings. When I'm in a building that has the weight of time, I feel like I'm put into perspective and can let go of the things I'm carrying. There are many historical buildings in Kyoto, but I recommend Chorakukan, an attractive building that blends Japanese and Western styles.

Interior of Chorakukan, Kyoto
Chorakukan, a grand mansion overlooking Maruyama Park Chorakukan is a guest house built in 1909 by Murai Kichibei, a Meiji-era businessman also known as the Tobacco King. It is a magnificent building with various designs and different uses for each room, such as a dining room, ball room, and art room, and seven rooms on the first and second floors are currently available for use as the Chorakukan Dessert Cafe. In 2024, the building was designated an Important Cultural Property along with 51 pieces of furniture, but it is also luxurious that these pieces can be used without any particular restrictions.

Kyoto's "Shops with a sense of space, people with a sense of space." Shijo-Omiya <TAKI/火>

A shop with "space for interpretation, a person with space for interpretation" in Kyoto. RECORD BAR YAMADA, Kiyomizu-Gojo.

Kyoto's "A store with space, people with space" - Marumachi Genyu

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