"A store with space, people with space" in Kyoto. Kuramaguchi <cookknoll>

Even great spaces and service cannot be enjoyed unless both the provider and the recipient are in a relaxed state of mind. This is especially true for the owners of renowned restaurants that give us experiences that are hard to find anywhere else. We spoke to the owner of cookknoll, one of Kyoto's most famous family restaurants, about the state of his restaurant and the "margins of Kyoto."

This article is currently available as a special feature in BRUTUS's "Kyoto's White Spaces" (published October 1, 2025). For more details, click here.

photo: Yoshiko Watanabe / text: Mako Yamato

"Family restaurants are filled with happy memories." Find the switch that opens the door to memories.

"We wanted to create a family restaurant, a place that would bring back memories of the happy times we spent together as a family as children," said owners Hayato Iida and his wife Honami. To realize this concept, they searched all over Japan for a nostalgic space that couldn't be created anew. They finally found it in Kyoto, in a building that had formerly been used as a grill.

"We lived in Osaka, and to be honest, we never even considered moving to Kyoto," the two laugh. However, with its angular exterior, curved design that flows from the walls to the ceiling, and herringbone floor tiles, the Showa-era modern space is the very definition of ideal. Without making excessive changes, they have created a space that allows people to relive childhood memories.

The menu is centered around traditional Western cuisine, carefully prepared with a focus on memorable visuals. Of course, desserts are also essential to get your spirits up before the meal.

"We have families with small children, elderly couples, local regulars, and even travelers. We even get requests for candles to celebrate birthdays. It makes me happy to see all kinds of people coming and going every day, creating different atmospheres. I'm glad I'm in Kyoto," says Honami. Her presence is like sowing the seeds of small happiness that will one day bloom in someone's heart.

French cruller, coffee
A freshly fried French cruller that melts in your mouth costs 400 yen. Coffee is 600 yen.

The owner of a famous restaurant with plenty of space talks about Kyoto's space

Taste, smiles, and old things that fill the gaps in our daily lives

The food at Tatsuki and the smile of the chef saved us time and time again when we were struggling in our first year of business. A simple and straightforward tempura bowl with two large shrimp tempura on rice, Chinese noodles, rolled omelet, piping hot miso soup, and meat bowl. The time we spend at Tatsuki may be the only peace we find in our daily lives.

All-day dining in the city, Tatsuki
Kato Hiroshi, the second generation owner, took over the restaurant that his parents opened in 1961 and continues to run the beloved restaurant in the town. The menu is so varied that it's hard to imagine it from the shop curtain, which features an illustration of a pig said to have been drawn by the previous owner, the character for "katsu" (pork cutlet), noodles, and Western food. Popular dishes include Chinese noodles, hamburger steak, omelet rice, and katsudon (pork cutlet bowl). However, each dish apparently has its own fans. Each dish is carefully prepared to order, and without pretense, it has a taste that makes you think, "This is what I wanted to eat." Tempura bowl 620 yen

Another place that comes to mind is itou. In fact, many of the decorations in the bathroom were purchased there. It all made sense when I noticed that the bathroom was the only spacious, white-themed space in the elaborately designed store.

itou store
Discovering the value of new things (itou)
This antique shop selects items across genres, regardless of country or era. The display, including the fixtures, is completely rearranged every month. This unique store only stocks items that resonate with the owner, Ito Shogo, regardless of their background. It's refreshing to discover unexpected value and have your senses stimulated. In Kyoto, it is now known as "itou-esque." Ten years after opening, it has also developed original products such as display stands that are an extension of its worldview.

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