Cantonese-style grilled food with a bottle of wine
Just 20 years ago, "Chinese food and wine" was something that was enjoyed in high-end restaurants, such as hotel dining. Even in China, wine has only recently become popular.
"Hong Kong was under British rule for a long time, so wine culture took root relatively quickly, and by the early 2000s, it was common to see people drinking wine in restaurants. In 2012, I went to a familiar restaurant in Hong Kong for the first time in a while, and there were bottles on almost every table."
"I'm a photographer," says Kazuo Kikuchi, who is known for his books about Hong Kong cuisine based on his extensive travels and culinary experiences. Since the 1990s, he has been one of the first to focus on Cantonese cuisine and wine in publications such as "Super (Food) Hong Kong" (Heibonsha).
Under Kikuchi's supervision, Shin Rakuki opened in Yotsuya, Tokyo in January this year. It serves Cantonese-style grilled dishes such as pork fillets, sausages, and roast goose, along with natural wine. There used to be a restaurant with the same concept called Rakuki in Gaienmae, which Kikuchi worked hard to open, but it sadly closed after six years. This restaurant has recreated that pleasure. The Cantonese-style grilled dishes are also a flavor that he has often introduced in his books as "the soul food of Hong Kong people."
The cuisine at Shinrakuki focuses on the good old Hong Kong flavors of the 1980s and 1990s. Kikuchi says that dishes like Kin'in chicken, which is grilled with layers of innards and back fat, are "being lost even locally because it takes too much time and effort." As for wine, Kikuchi insists that wine is offered by the bottle, and prices are kept quite low. "I'm a big drinker myself," he laughs, but with wine by the glass now the norm, he also aims to rekindle the joy of sharing a bottle with friends around the table. "I want to do the exact opposite of restaurants that only offer courses and start everyone at the same time with paired drinks. It creates a lively atmosphere where people of all kinds can gather and enjoy themselves freely," he adds.
There is always one white, one red, and one orange wine available by the carafe or by the glass, but considering the variety of dishes on offer, it might be best to gather a group and join in the vibrant hustle and bustle inside the restaurant.
The walls, with the names of dishes written in kanji only, are reminiscent of local restaurants. 
Every night, a large number of bottles are emptied, including some precious wines that Kikuchi personally shares with him from an importer he has known for many years. 
Ham yui fried rice 2,000 yen. A popular menu item since the Gaienmae era. 
There are 32 seats in total. The high ceiling and open-plan space give a sense of spaciousness. 
In one corner of the kitchen, grilled food is hanging in the process of being cooked. 
The red neon sign is iconic.
