The beloved flavors of Shibuya are back in town. Daikanyama's Arimasa Astage returns after 10 years

The good old local Chinese restaurants that survived because they were family-run and didn't require labor costs or rent are now in danger of extinction due to a lack of successors, an aging population, and redevelopment of the area. Nowadays, the number of restaurants that cater to the needs of local Chinese customers is decreasing. Here's a look at the current state of Daikanyama's Arimasa Astage, which is trying to protect its restaurant and its flavor.

photo: Hisashi Okamoto / text: Haruka Koishihara

The sweet aroma of shiitake mushrooms returns after a 10-year hiatus

Yusho, which was founded in 1970, actually went bankrupt 12 years ago.

The predecessor restaurant was founded in Jingumae, and later moved to Namikibashi in Shibuya. The restaurant gained popularity for its signature shiitake mushroom soba and a variety of other dishes that at first glance seemed ordinary, but were in fact subtly unique, but was forced to suddenly close in 2013. At that time, Kazuo Hashimoto, who had already taken over the sash from his father, Hideo Hashimoto the first owner, left Namikibashi with a promise to his regular customers posted on the door: "We will definitely do it again."

Shiitake mushroom soba
This is a perennial staple at Arimasa, which has been around for as long as Hashimoto can remember. The rich, sweet flavor of the shiitake mushrooms, simmered for a week, melts into the clear soup as you eat it. 1,100 yen.

He was determined to revive the restaurant in an area not far from the original so that regular customers and local friends could easily visit. However, it wasn't easy to find a suitable location, so he and his partner Atsuko worked hard together to find a property while working at various restaurants. They even rented space in a yakitori restaurant in Maruyamacho, but they just waited for the right time.

And then, in September 2011, Arimasa was reborn. With a touch of new flavor added to its name, it is now located on the second floor of a residential-style building in a back alley in Daikanyama, near Shibuya. The signboard reading "Chinese Noodles Arimasa" placed under the outside stairs is the same one that was previously used at Namikibashi. It serves as a landmark for those who have been eagerly awaiting the taste of Arimasa.

"In an era when the local Chinese restaurant genre itself is in danger of extinction, I don't think it's possible to create a restaurant like the old days from scratch. This restaurant isn't on the street and doesn't have the atmosphere of a local Chinese restaurant, but this was the only way we could start again."

The taste of Shibuya is back.

The kitchen at Arimasa Astage
The kitchen is like a cockpit. "It's too small to make gyoza," they say, but the location was the top priority.

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