Gourmand Ontology: Higashi-Nagasaki〈Sushi Higashi〉Rising star of community-based sushi restaurants that are close to your daily life.

This is a popular series in BRUTUS introducing restaurants by theme. This time, the theme is "Restaurants where you can enjoy delicious fish and drinks." Blessed with good fishing grounds and skilled fishermen, Japan has a flourishing fish-eating culture. When you have good fish and sake, there's nothing better to say. A sushi restaurant perfect for everyday use has opened in Higashi-Nagasaki. It also has a great selection of sake. Let's go and enjoy some Japanese fish.

photo: Shin-ichi Yokoyama / text: Mamiko kume

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Sushi Higashi (Higashi Nagasaki)

A rising star of local sushi, a place that is close to the community and part of everyday life

Owner Junji Higashiyama was influenced by his father, who was a skilled cook, to enter the world of cooking. He also worked at a sushi restaurant in a hotel and in a traditional Japanese restaurant in Rome, Italy. After that, he was captivated by the local sushi that was served at Nakano's Sushi Seizan, where the customers could feel at close quarters, and opened his own restaurant with the desire to "serve authentic sushi in a casual style."

The restaurant's open, glass-walled exterior and bistro-style interior are unique, but what really sets it apart is its price range. The chef's choice kaiseki course includes an appetizer followed by seasonal chawanmushi and blanched vegetables. There are delicacies like grilled eel and grilled skewers of fatty tuna, but the simple pickles really hit the spot.

The nigiri sushi ranges from white fish to shellfish, with waves of their prized medium fatty tuna, followed by salted squid, pickled tuna, sea urchin and salmon roe, all served in small bowls. Towards the end, a second wave is made with conger eel, and the meal is finished off with egg and clear soup. "The rice is a blend of red vinegar, black vinegar and rice vinegar, so you won't tire of it," says Higashiyama. They also have a sophisticated selection of sake, and even if you sip to your heart's content, you'll still have change left over from 10,000 yen per person, making this a truly rare find these days.

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