Experience the feeling of getting drunk on tea: Three Chinese tea specialty shops in Tokyo recommended by Chasui

Have you heard of the phenomenon known as "tea drunkenness"? We asked Goto Keitaro of ochayoi, a company that organizes tea ceremonies, podcasts, and zine productions to spread the experience of getting drunk on Chinese tea, to recommend three Chinese tea specialty shops.

Click here to read an article introducing the activities of Ochayoi.

photo: Kichi Fukuda / text: Sara Hosokawa

The person who taught me: Goto Keitaro of "ochayoi"

Rock Sabo (Nakameguro)

The ultimate rock tea experience

The first place Goto recommended was Nakameguro's Ganchabo. Here you can enjoy a Chinese tea called "Gancha." This oolong tea is made from tea plants that grow on the rocky mountains of Mount Wuyi in Fujian Province, and is characterized by its aroma and flavor that includes the minerals from the rocks.

When Noriyo Sano first tried rock tea in China, she experienced a mysterious change in her mind and body, like a floating sensation, known as "tea drunkenness." She opened this cafe-style shop in the hopes of sharing that experience with people in Japan.

Although it is a specialty store, the space is not stuffy. The natural light streaming in through the large windows and the relaxed pace of the atmosphere help to ease the tension of visitors.

"Even though it's right in the middle of Tokyo, it feels like this is the only place that isn't Tokyo. When you enter the premises, it's as if the hustle and bustle disappears. When you drink tea at Iwa Sabo, you feel like your mind is reset," says Goto, making this place feel like an oasis in the city.

The menu features over a dozen different types of rock tea. To help first-time customers choose without hesitation, the menu also includes information on the characteristics of the flavor and aroma, as well as descriptions of its effects, such as "when you've used your brain too much" and "for allergies and detoxification."

The staff will brew your first cup, and from the second cup onwards you can brew at your own pace. You can refill the water in the pot as much as you like, so you can enjoy the changing flavors as you brew multiple times. If you're unsure about the brewing method, the staff will be happy to help you.

"Iwa Sabo is like a second home to me. I listen to Sano talk about history and art, and chat with him about everyday things. I always end up staying there for at least two hours," says Goto.

It is one of the few places where you can experience the true essence of tea drinking, and yet it quietly opens its doors to anyone. At Iwa Sabo, there is no set style or correct answer, and the atmosphere is one where you are allowed to just be.

Chinese Tea House Ichigo Ichie (Mejiro)

Enjoy your first Chinese tea with dim sum

It can be a little nerve-wracking to go to a Chinese tea specialty store for the first time, so if that sounds like you, Ichigo Ichie, located close to Mejiro Station, is the place to go.

This shop, run by a Chinese owner, offers a dim sum and tea set as an introduction to enjoying Chinese tea. The set includes the fresh Pu'er tea "Baiyuan," a specially selected product made from tea leaves from an exclusively contracted field. The first brew will be prepared for you, and you can then brew and savor multiple brews at your own pace while enjoying brunch or tea snacks. If you don't know how to brew, the staff will kindly teach you, so you don't have to worry.

While they offer a familiar set menu, they also have a wide variety of tea leaves, some of which are a little unusual. Recommended by the shop's manager, Naoko Nakagami, is "Taihei Koukai," a green tea made by roasting each tea leaf individually over charcoal. It's a rich yet perfectly balanced cup of tea with a long-lasting, pure aftertaste.

You can also purchase tea leaves in the store. Goto says he visits Ichigo Ichie when he is looking for a rare tea. "They have a solid Pu'er tea called Mochicha. In English it's called Tea Cake, so I once gave it to a friend as a birthday cake. The more it ages, the more it matures, so I gave it to him as a gift so that we could meet up and drink this tea every year. In the end, my friend drank it all in one year (laughs)."

Ichigo Ichie also regularly holds events to help people enjoy Chinese tea more intimately, such as tea ceremonies with guest lecturers and pairings of Chinese tea with medicinal foods. From beginners to tea aficionados, this is a place where anyone can discover new Chinese teas.

South Avenue (Nishi-Ogikubo)

Searching for tea leaves as if traveling

South Avenue offers a wide selection of tea leaves, including jasmine tea, Pu-erh tea, black tea, white tea, green tea, and oolong tea. The moment you step inside the store, you'll be enveloped in the aroma of jasmine flowers, creating an exotic atmosphere.

There are many different types of jasmine tea, including "Jin-oh," "Yin-zhen," and "Zhen-zhu-oh." Jasmine tea is a familiar beverage sold in plastic bottles, but its aroma is on a completely different level. According to staff member Anna Mika, the process of flavoring jasmine tea requires a great deal of skill, as the tea leaves used are changed depending on the weather.

We were able to hear such stories because staff member Anna and owner Etsuko Iwasaki have visited many Chinese tea-producing regions. Their journey is reflected in the handmade maps and scrapbooks that cover the walls. Every year, the two travel to various places, including Fujian Province, a jasmine tea-producing region.

Goto also says that the highlight of South Avenue is the scrapbook. "The scrapbook, which contains records of the couple's travels, is a treasure trove of primary information. It's amazing how real experiences that you would never find on the internet have been put into a physical form. It feels like 'excessive independent research', including the three-dimensional maps. I respect them."

While sipping tea while looking through the scrapbook, you will feel as if you are savoring the memories of your travels. Why not bring home some tea leaves wrapped in the stories of foreign lands and enjoy them at home?

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