Experience the real Showa era scenery that has not been commercialized as a tourist spot
If the Showa era had continued unchanged, this year would have marked the 100th anniversary of the Showa era. For those who remember the Showa era, this is a very auspicious and emotional year. The era has transitioned from Showa to Heisei and now to Reiwa, and before we knew it, the streets of Tokyo have changed considerably.
Tokyo Tower, which was by far the tallest building in Japan, has been overshadowed by the surrounding skyscrapers, and redevelopment is continuing in front of train stations across Tokyo. The traditional bookstores, butcher shops, and other independent businesses that once lined the shopping streets have disappeared, replaced by modern buildings such as modern chain restaurants and drugstores.
It's inevitable that cityscapes will change with the times, but whenever I see the scenery change in this way, I feel a sense of unease. To be honest, I hope it stays the same forever.
The value of preserving old townscapes is deeply rooted in many areas of Japan, including Kyoto, Kamakura, and Kawagoe, but these are all areas densely populated with historical buildings, and streetscapes lined with common shops from the Showa era have hardly been targeted for preservation. However, perhaps it is precisely these streetscapes that are so closely connected to the daily lives of ordinary people that have cultural value.
If things continue as they are, it's likely that in a few decades, the townscapes that allow us to experience the Showa era in a realistic way will have vanished without a trace. Before these scenery disappears completely, I want to visit as many Showa-era spots as possible and etch them deeply in my heart.
Kameari Food Market
The site still retains a strong post-war atmosphere. Although small in scale, it is lined with greengrocers and delicatessens, and is always bustling with local customers. The building is a two-story mortar structure, with the upper floors once used as residential space. The site is covered with a corrugated iron roof, and countless electric wires hang overhead. The fluorescent lights hanging along the corridors give it a nostalgic feel.
Address: Near Kameari 3-20-6, Katsushika Ward | map
Asakusa underground shopping street
Japan's oldest underground shopping mall. The low ceilings with exposed pipes and wiring give it a sense of age. Underground shopping malls are commonplace these days, but when it was first completed it must have seemed like a completely different space. The site is home to a variety of shops, including a stand-up soba restaurant, an izakaya, and a yakisoba restaurant where you can drink beer, making it a great place to stop by on your way home from work.
Address: 1 Hanakawado, Taito-ku | map
Green Garden Street
This is the heart of Shinjuku. In a narrow, empty alley sandwiched between buildings, all that remains is an old gate sign for a restaurant district. This is a remnant of a former alley called "Ryokuen-gai" where you could drink cheap alcohol, and is said to be the birthplace of Shinjuku 2-chome's gay town. For some reason, only the gate sign remains and has not been removed.
Address: Shinjuku 2-5, Shinjuku-ku | map
Ebisu Store
Located inside a building, this shopping street is reminiscent of the Showa era. The narrow aisles and low ceilings are reminiscent of the time, giving you the feeling of having traveled back in time. Many stores have closed their shutters, but several old-fashioned shops are still in business (the stores shown in the photo are different from their current state). It's also very conveniently located right in front of Ebisu Station.
Address: 1-8-3 Ebisu, Shibuya-ku | map
JR East Asakusabashi Station iron pillar
The gently rounded design of the iron pillars supporting the platform roof is wonderful. They were made from recycled old railway rails, and even now, more than 90 years after the station opened in 1932, they have been beautifully preserved in their original condition. Even nationwide, iron pillars in station buildings that are conscious of beauty are extremely rare. Address: 1 Asakusabashi, Taito-ku | map
Metro Promenade Mosaic Mural
Created by Kenji Saji. Renovation work is underway in the underground premises of Shinjuku Station, and it is losing its Showa-era charm. However, this work, located in the passageway connecting the JR line and the subway, remains unchanged for over half a century. The shapes of the fish and birds, and the colors of the tiles, encapsulate the atmosphere of the high economic growth period.
Address: Shinjuku 3, Shinjuku-ku | map
