BIKEPACKING DIARY in Alaska Vol.10: If you could only choose one more thing?

After getting a decent bike, this editor became completely hooked on cycling, traveling solo to Hokkaido and New Zealand before setting off on her next adventure. It was a 42-day bikepacking adventure that consisted of cycling, taking photos, and writing. This is the record of a woman's adventure as she pedaled through the wilderness of Alaska.

photo & text: Satomi Yamada

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Day 21
2023.09.06 wed
Tenderfoot Creek - Cooper Landing

After we finished moving and were getting ready to camp at the campsite, a man walked up to my site and said,

"I caught some salmon today, so I'm going to fillet and cook it. I have a lot, so why don't you come over later to eat?"

Salmon! For someone traveling by bicycle, it's a rare treat. Living on a diet centered on dry food, your body craves animal protein. There's no greater luxury than being able to enjoy freshly caught salmon. I immediately replied, "I'd love to go."

Each campsite at Cooper Creek Campground is separate and independent.

"Okay, I'll be ready in about an hour and a half, so I'll be waiting at number 29."

He told me where he was and that his name was Brian, then headed back the way he came.

While I was making my bed and doing some maintenance on my bike, the appointed time arrived. I walked to site number 29. It wasn't far, but in contrast to the quiet forest deep inside that I had chosen, it faced the river and offered an open view.

The place where the car is parked is site 29, where Brian is.
The Kenai River, known for its salmon, flows through the area, and many people go fishing from boats here.

When Brian saw me, he invited me to sit at the table and immediately began cooking. The salmon was taken out of the bag and was a vibrant pink with a subtle glow.

Turn on the stove and heat oil in a frying pan. Place the salmon on a cutting board and cut it in half with a knife. Carefully transfer the salmon to the heated frying pan. Sprinkle with salt and pepper, cover and cook until steamed.

Maybe it was because I was hungry, but the time it took to cook seemed unusually long. While I was waiting, Brian prepared some condiments, such as soy sauce and lemon, on the table. Since my meals are usually so bland, just that made it feel special.

Brian cutting the salmon.
The filleted salmon is packed generously into a Ziploc bag.

After a while, a nicely cooked salmon is placed in front of me.

"Start eating before it gets cold."

Brian said as he started to grill his own portion. Taking his word for it, I decided to eat first.

I had planned to just season it with salt and pepper and enjoy the ingredients as they were, but since I had the chance, I decided to add lemon and soy sauce. Other than that, there were no other decorations. But the taste was as luxurious as it could be.

It's thick, so it's cooked slowly.
Cook each piece in a small frying pan.

As dusk approached and the temperature gradually dropped, Brian brought us chocolate for dessert and some hot tea.

We gathered firewood for the bonfire, but it was damp from the previous day's rain and the fire didn't get going easily, so we struggled for a while. As it got dark, we finally got a fire going, and we took turns telling each other our stories while keeping warm.

Brian is originally from New Jersey and now lives in Colorado. The Rocky Mountains run north to south across the state, and the average elevation of the state is the highest in the United States. The town where he lives is also over 2,500 meters above sea level.

At high altitudes, the boiling point of water drops, making it difficult to cook rice properly. Brian, who loves Japanese food, uses a rice cooker, which is unusual for an American household. The salmon that day came with egg, so he laughed and said he planned to make salmon roe to eat with rice.

His hobbies are trail running and ultramarathons, and he has even participated in the Ultra Gobi, a 400-kilometer race through the Gobi Desert. When I mentioned my interest in the Silk Road Mountain Race, he told me that a friend of his had participated in it, and he was very knowledgeable about the race.

That's because his activities are not limited to just a hobby. He founded iRunFar, an online magazine specializing in trail running and ultra-long distance races, and he writes and manages the site. Coincidentally, he is an editor, just like me.

He's currently obsessed with fishing. The Kenai River, which flows right next to the campsite, is exceptional, so he drove 5,000 kilometers from Colorado to experience it. He plans to spend about two months fishing in Alaska during this trip.

A customized Toyota TAKOMA
The Toyota Tacoma has been customized so that the cargo area can be used to carry items for camping, fishing, etc., and the upper part can be used to lie down and sleep.

Their mode of transportation was a minimalist camper van converted from a pickup truck. It had enough space for one person to sleep and only the bare necessities of luggage. It was probably on the small side compared to the people traveling to Alaska. But it also had a refrigerator and a generator, and to me it seemed more than big enough to be a "home."

As we were talking, Brian suddenly asked me a question.

"If you could carry just one more piece of luggage, what would you choose?"

I had always thought that you couldn't carry much luggage on a bicycle trip, but when I heard that, I couldn't think of anything.

I have everything I need for a months-long trip to Alaska: a tent, sleeping bag, and clothes to keep me warm. I also have a gas burner and pots to cook my meals. I even have a paperback book.

So, what else do you want more than that?

I couldn't think of anything at all. In fact, I could think of some luggage that I rarely use. I wanted to get rid of them and become more light-hearted. That feeling even began to well up inside me.

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