Stylist Yoshiyuki Kitao shares how to enjoy linen

Linen, with its appealing texture and unique feel, is a material that is perfect for Japan's hot and humid spring and summer. We spoke to stylist Yoshiyuki Kitao about how to enjoy linen, which develops and gains character with each wear.

photo: Hiromichi Uchida

Linen is something you grow with your own hands

I believe linen is a material that is perfectly suited to Japanese people, so much so that it could even be called "Asian clothing." It has long been used as a material for kimonos, making it a familiar material, and its functionality is best suited to Japan's climate. Needless to say, linen is highly absorbent and quick-drying, making it a natural functional material that should be incorporated into your style to help you get through the hot and humid summer. However, there are a few points to keep in mind.

First of all, with linen, you can "enjoy the wrinkles." Japanese people tend to dislike wrinkles in clothes, but the natural wrinkles that form in linen are beautiful. That's why I don't wear it right away after buying it, but rather rub it in well and then wash it. By doing this repeatedly, the fabric develops its own unique character, and the wrinkles become a unique feature of the fabric.

Therefore, taking into consideration that linen shrinks more than other materials, I choose a size a little larger than usual. This "kneading" process should be done especially carefully with white linen. White linen doesn't show its unique texture easily, so it's fine to just crumple it up before washing. A beautifully wrinkled white linen shirt is really cool. Linen suits are recommended for spring and summer as they are cool and wrinkles aren't a concern. I also enjoy wearing Komori suits in the summer.

I also believe that linen is something to enjoy layering. The fabric itself is tough, but it also has a delicate feel to it, so it pairs perfectly with fabrics that seem to hold air.

Layering thin materials allows you to adapt to subtle temperature changes, and in my case, until around mid-July, a linen shirt jacket with an ultra-thin merino wool inner T-shirt from Montbell is just right. Even in humid weather, a linen outer layer is stress-free to wear. Shirts are of course good, but I would recommend linen as an outer layer.

Among all the linen outerwear, I think it would be cool to wear a tough, thick linen like a burlap sack. I want to slowly get used to it, like taming a leather jacket.

It's also nice to enjoy the natural beige color of linen. It's also stylish to coordinate the natural texture of linen with a contrasting color such as red.

Linen pajamas can also help you get through the tropical nights that are unique to Asia. Adding a slightly elegant outer layer, like a silk gown, over them instantly makes them stylish enough for the neighborhood. On the swelteringly hot days of recent years, staying comfortable is of utmost importance. Linen, which combines functionality with a fashionable element, is the material you need to enjoy a comfortable and enjoyable Japanese summer.

A shirt jacket created in collaboration between Komori and Salvatore Piccolo
This shirt jacket is a collaboration between COMOLI and Salvatore Piccolo for the Spring/Summer 2023 season. "It's made of thick linen, so it doesn't shrink even after washing, and I wear it heavily. I pair it with a merino wool T-shirt so I can handle changes in temperature."

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