BRUTUS Watch Brand Studies Vol.48〈Baume & Mercier〉

This series will explain each important brand you need to know about from the world of mechanical watches, which is deeper than the ocean. Taking into account the history and characteristics, we will introduce one of the brand's iconic "masterpieces" as well as one of the noteworthy "new releases" that have been released over the past year. With each lecture, you will learn more about watches. Watch journalist Norio Takagi will be the lecturer. The 48th installment will be Baume & Mercier.

text: Norio Takagi / illustration: Shinji Abe

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One of Switzerland's leading watch brands, leading the way in watch trends

The Swiss watch industry was brought to the country by French watchmakers fleeing persecution during the Protestant Reformation at the end of the 16th century. The Baume family, staunch Protestants, also emigrated from their hometown of Normandy to the town of Les Bois in the Swiss Jura region, where they engaged in the watchmaking industry, which was already thriving there. The workshop was passed down through five generations, and in 1830 they founded the watch manufacturer Société Baume Frères (Baume Brothers Company). Since then, the family has continued to focus solely on watchmaking to this day.

In the second half of the 19th century, the company won seven gold medals and ten Grand Prix awards at international exhibitions around the world. As early as 1892, the company completed a tourbillon and won a prize at the precision competition held at the Royal Observatory, Kew, England, demonstrating its outstanding technical capabilities. Then, in 1918, the Baume family had a fateful encounter with Paul Mercier, an entrepreneur and lover of art.

He was ahead of his time and brought a high aesthetic sense that was not afraid of change to the Maison. In the same year, Baume & Mercier was founded in Geneva. He was one of the first to incorporate Art Deco elements, and his diverse case designs, including rectangular and dodecagonal shapes, won him many fans. In terms of mechanisms, he also long specialized in chronographs and calendar mechanisms.

Even during the difficult times caused by the Quartz Crisis, Baume & Mercier managed to overcome them with its sophisticated design. It has also led the way in watch design trends, with models such as the Riviera, an elegant sports watch with a 12-sided bezel, and the Hampton, which sparked a boom in square watches.

In 2018, the company launched the in-house movement "Baumatic," which has a five-day running time, high precision, and excellent magnetic and shock resistance. Baume & Mercier makes excellent design and high performance accessible to everyone.

[Signature: Masterpiece] Clifton Baumatic Blue Dial

The perfect daily watch with high precision, high magnetic resistance, and a beautiful appearance

Baume & Mercier Clifton Baumatic Blue Dial

This new icon of the 21st century has been a huge hit since its debut in 2019, when it was equipped with the company's in-house movement, Baumatic. The authentic round case and lugs are connected by a smooth curve, and the bezel is strongly slanted, creating an air of elegance.

Meanwhile, the dial combines slim wedge-shaped indexes with sharp hands to create a bold look. The delicate gradation of blue is truly beautiful. The bracelet features two lines formed by slim satin-finished links, giving it a rich nuance. Another big attraction is the high cost performance.

40mm diameter, automatic movement, stainless steel case. 528,000 yen.

[New: New Arrival] Riviera Semi-Skeleton

Modern skeleton design in black and silver

Baume & Mercier Riviera Skeleton

The flat 12-sided bezel is secured with four screws - a design that was born in 1973 and has influenced the watch designs of other companies, inheriting the iconic look into the modern era. The latest model has been released with a modern skeleton design that plays on symmetry.

The rhodium-plated gears and balance wheel contrast against the background of the black frame, incorporating the way they tick away time into the design. The barrel, visible at 11:30, is also openworked, revealing the rewinding of the mainspring on the dial side. The strap is interchangeable and can be changed without tools.

42mm diameter, automatic movement, stainless steel case. 665,500 yen.

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