BRUTUS Watch Brand Studies Vol.47〈Gucci〉

This series will explain each important brand you need to know about from the world of mechanical watches, which is deeper than the ocean. Taking into account the history and characteristics, we will introduce one of the brand's iconic "masterpieces" as well as one of the noteworthy "new releases" that have been released over the past year. With each lecture, you will learn more about watches. Watch journalist Norio Takagi will be the lecturer. The 47th installment will be Gucci.

text: Norio Takagi / illustration: Shinji Abe

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Entering the luxury watch market on the occasion of the company's 100th anniversary

Looking back through Gucci's archives, one can find clocks built into bag clasps made in the 1960s. In the 1970s, the brand established a watchmaking workshop in Switzerland. The brand's watch collection, which combines Italian design with Swiss watchmaking techniques, has long placed emphasis on fashion and has mainly been equipped with easy-to-use quartz movements.

However, in 2021, marking the brand's 100th anniversary, the direction of Gucci watches underwent a major change. The Gucci 25H, launched that year, integrated a case with a wide, flat bezel and bracelet. Its exterior reinterpreted the style of luxury sports watches established in the 1970s and featured the brand's first in-house movement. Moreover, it featured a micro-rotor automatic winding system, achieving an ultra-thin design of just 3.7mm, something that even specialized watch brands struggle to achieve. A tourbillon was also released at the same time, with its movement also being ultra-thin at 4.75mm.

Gucci's in-house movement, suddenly announced without any prior warning, shocked the watch world. Its excellent design and high level of perfection were met with praise. After entering the luxury watch market with the Gucci 25H, Gucci went on to create a variety of in-house complicated mechanisms, including a unique complicated mechanism with a tourbillon in the center of the dial, surrounded by 12 precious stone beads that rotate with the push of a button.

In 2023, a new manufacturing facility, the Gucci Watch Lab, will be completed in Cortaillod, a town in the canton of Neuchâtel, one of the centers of the Swiss watch industry. The pace of development of original luxury watches will continue to accelerate.

[Signature: Masterpiece] Gucci 25H Automatic Steel Watch 40mm

The first watch with an in-house movement

Gucci 25H Automatic Steel Watch 40mm

This milestone watch, released in 2021, overturned the casual image of Gucci watches. Thanks to its ultra-thin in-house automatic movement, the case is only 7.1mm thick, but the two-layered bezel, with a matte finish on the top and a polished, sparkling lower layer, creates a three-dimensional effect and rich nuances within its thinness. The dial features thick, three-dimensional horizontal stripes, giving it a powerful impression.

The style follows the rules of luxury sports watches, but is stylishly reinterpreted in tone-on-tone silver. The bracelet is both rigid and flexible, making it comfortable to wear.

40mm diameter, automatic movement, stainless steel case. 1,408,000 yen.

[New: New] Gucci 25H Minute Repeater

A playful approach to making a super-complex mechanism pop

Gucci 25H Minute Repeater

Just three years after starting its luxury watchmaking business, Gucci succeeded in combining two complicated mechanisms: a tourbillon and a minute repeater. Furthermore, the minute repeater is a rare carillon with three gongs and hammers. It was extremely innovative to operate it by turning the bezel, rather than using the usual sliders or push buttons.

The playfulness of this complicated mechanism, which is difficult even for a watch-only brand to produce, is typical of Gucci, with its graphically skeletonized design. When the bezel is turned, the current time is read on the dial, and the mechanism moves the hammer the same number of times, creating a dramatic movement.

40mm diameter, manual winding, 18KWG case. Price upon request.

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