Gourmet: Learn from the past and create something new: Waseda University's "Kyuu" - homey Chinese medicinal cuisine reminiscent of Shibosai

This is a popular series in BRUTUS introducing restaurants by theme. This time, the theme is "Second Stage Chinese Cuisine." A talented chef with a career in Chinese cuisine has opened a new restaurant that further strengthens his own style. At Waseda, he serves medicinal cuisine made with seasonal ingredients. He has moved from a closed kitchen to an open one. He will also be introducing a new course menu.

photo: Shin-ichi Yokoyama / text: Mamiko Kume

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Old Rain (Waseda)

Homey Chinese medicinal cuisine reminiscent of traditional Japanese cuisine

The satisfying sound of the wok, the white steam rising from the bamboo steamer, and the aroma of sesame oil that whets the appetite... With an open kitchen right in front of you, this restaurant is reminiscent of a Hong Kong restaurant where the chef shows off his skills in a private space.

After gaining experience as a chef at the Chinese restaurant Kogetsu Shinjuku, the owner and chef of the new restaurant has changed the style. A certified high-end nutritional and herbalist, he serves a nine-course omakase course meal using cooking methods that follow the basic principles of traditional Chinese medicine.

For example, the specialty health soup is a combination of beets, peanuts, turmeric and guinea fowl. Maeda says, "In the spring, when blood tends to be lacking, we incorporate ingredients that replenish blood and circulate it throughout the body to improve liver function."

Although the stir-fry may seem bold, the surface of the clams is lightly seared and then cooked to a temperature of 70°C. It is then tossed in a sauce of separately cooked butterbur shoots and sesame oil, with care.

There is a wide selection of items and it is run by a single person, so please come with plenty of time.

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