A brown specimen gazes up from the display case with moist eyes. It is said to have appeared in the 1950s and was once whispered to be an "endangered species," but in recent years, tanuki cakes have gradually gained attention. This was triggered by the zine "Tanuki Cake Tour," compiled by Aomori resident Matsumoto Yoshifumi. Since its launch in 2013, the zine has traveled around the country, documenting the creatures' habitats, and is published at a rate of one volume per year.
Written by Yoshifumi Matsumoto. Published at a pace of one volume per year since 2013. Includes a habitat map of tanuki cakes. Blog too.
"When I was a child, I accompanied my mother on a shopping trip and discovered tanuki cakes at the Western confectionery shop Raisin (which closed in 2012) in my hometown of Shichinohe," says Matsumoto. He adds that the delicately seasoned cuteness of the cakes is what makes them so appealing, and that "the high degree of freedom in the cakes, with their shapes and expressions being completely different depending on the creator's interpretation, is also fascinating."
There are no documents or other sources left about Tanuki Cake, so the origins of the cake are shrouded in mystery. According to his research, the most likely theory is that after the war, with the rapid spread of chocolate, Western-style confectioners came up with the idea of making it appealing to children, and it spread throughout the country.
The basic technique is to whip buttercream to form the head and place it on top of a sponge cake, then drizzle with chocolate, but the unique technique is to quickly pinch the cream with your fingers to create the eyes and nose. It is easy to agree with the hypothesis that "since Western sweets don't often involve direct contact with the cream, this may be a gesture more reminiscent of Japanese sweets."
It's not just nostalgia; uncovering the ecology of tanuki cake is also a romantic insight into the history of Western confectionery.
"Tanuki" by French Confectionery
"This is the classic look of a tanuki cake. It's perfect for beginners," says Matsumoto.
This Western-style pastry shop has been in business for over 50 years and is beloved by locals. The fluffy sponge cakes are light and airy. The big eyes and pug-like back posture are adorable.
Ponta Cake from Patisserie Kougetsu
The second generation, who left his previous Japanese confectionery shop and honed his skills at a Western confectionery shop in Kobe, founded the patisserie 20 years ago. The pastry has crusts made from white chocolate, and "the cream made with fresh butter is an excellent evolution," says Matsumoto.
"Tanuki" from Koshiji Confectionery
Founded in 1955. The previous owner learned about tanuki cake while training at the Roppongi pastry shop Clover, and recreated it after going independent. Initially, the face was made of macaron, but later changed to buttercream. Is this one of Tokyo's oldest tanuki cakes?
