Ask a craftsman for the secrets of shopping. Beams buyer Tadayuki Kato boasts about his treasures

There are people known as connoisseurs who are skilled at distinguishing between the authenticity and quality of goods. They truly enjoy buying, find joy in collecting, and eventually become collectors themselves. How do they hone their aesthetic sense? We spoke to Tadayuki Kato, a buyer at Beams and director of SSZ, who has his own unique value standards, about the secrets of shopping that only a master craftsman can have.

photo: Kenya Abe / text: Chisa Nishinoiri

Clothes that reflect the designer's spirit are like art

Tadayuki Kato is a self-proclaimed shopping master. As a buyer at one of Japan's leading select shops, he is no exception to the rule of connoisseurship. The maison brands he collected between the late 1990s and the early 2000s are the source of his own creations.

"Even back then, Maison Martin Margiela (now Maison Margiela) and Helmut Lang were hugely popular, but the prices of the collections designed by Martin Margiela himself from Spring/Summer 1989 to Spring/Summer 2009 have skyrocketed worldwide. Of these, I particularly loved the military jackets from the Artisanal Line, which was launched in 1991. They were made by dismantling old clothes and reconstructing them into new pieces, so they almost feel more like one-of-a-kind art pieces than just clothing.

After that, remade items became really popular, and I think Margiela was definitely the one who started it. I have a weakness for military items by designers, and I'm drawn to punk and military items made by maison brands that make elegant clothes."

Maison Martin Margiela's Artisanal military jacket
Maison Martin Margiela Artisanal Military Jacket / Olive
The artisanal line, which is made by processing and reconstructing old clothes, was made by hand, so there were only a few of them to begin with and they are now rarely available on the market.
Maison Martin Margiela's Artisanal military jacket
Maison Martin Margiela Artisanal Military Jacket/Black
"After I bought the olive one above, I found out that there was a black one, so I tracked it down and bought that color as well. The black one is even rarer, so it's a precious piece."
Maison Martin Margiela's Artisanal military jacket
"The ribbing on the cuffs and pockets are made from the same material. I thought the collar line looked a little feminine, so I hardly wore it when I first bought it, but when I tried it on again after a long time, I actually found the larger collar to be quite nice (laughs)."

Although clothing has a clear set price as a product, the price can sometimes go up when added value is added.

"The fashion industry has long had people known as 'opinion leaders,' and when a brand catches their eye, its value rises, making it difficult to obtain and leading to skyrocketing prices. However, clothes like Margiela's, which are made with the maker's heart and soul, continue to be loved and timeless, transcending the ages. I believe that this is where the value of the item lies."

Helmut Lang military vest
Helmut Lang military vest
Since its first appearance in the 1997 Autumn/Winter collection, it has been one of the brand's iconic items.
Helmut Lang military vest
"At the time, I saw someone at work wearing the same black line and fell in love at first sight. It's a classic from 1999 designed by Helmut Lang himself. I really like the punk elements that I sense in the minimalism that is so characteristic of Lang, such as the treatment on the side."

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