BRUTUS Watch Brand Studies Vol.39〈Ulysse Nardin〉

Inheriting high-precision technology and leading the watch industry with originality

Before GPS became widespread, highly accurate deck clocks called marine chronometers were essential for voyages across the ocean. These were used to determine the distance traveled east or west based on the time difference from the departure point. Since its founding, Ulysse Nardin has been an excellent manufacturer of marine chronometers. Its reputation spread throughout the world, with its timepieces being adopted by the navies of over 50 countries. Its high-precision technology was also applied to pocket watches and wristwatches, establishing the brand's position as a luxury watchmaking maison.

However, in the 1970s, the quartz crisis that hit the Swiss watch industry put Ulysse Nardin in danger of disappearing. It was saved by investor Rolf W. Schnieder, a watch enthusiast. After acquiring the Maison in 1983, he attempted to create a wristwatch-sized astronomical clock, which was previously only available as a large clock.

Then in 1985, the masterpiece "Astrolabium Galileo Galilei" was completed, mechanically programmed with 144,000 years of celestial information, including solar and lunar eclipses and the zodiac signs. Further models with different astronomical displays were released in 1988 and 1992. The arrival of this astronomical trilogy not only revived the Maison but also contributed to a widespread rediscovery of the appeal of mechanical watches.

He continued to demonstrate his originality by integrating a minute repeater with an automaton and creating a mechanism that allowed the second time zone display to be adjusted forward and backward. In 2001, he completed the Freak, a watch with a movement that became the symbol of the Maison, and the minute hand. This was the first time that a silicon escapement was used.

Silicon parts, which offer significantly improved magnetic resistance and driving efficiency, are now used by many brands. Ulysse Nardin, which owns the manufacturer, is spreading this excellent innovation by providing parts to other companies, paving the way for a new future for mechanical watches.

[Signature: Masterpiece] Marine Torpilleur

The dial design inherits the Maison's roots

The dial design, with a power reserve indicator and small seconds at 12 and 6 o'clock, is modeled after the marine chronometers they previously produced. The dial is expanded by thinning the coin-edged bezel, and the clear contrast of the white background, black indexes, and blue hands ensures excellent legibility.

Although the case is a little large, the shape and angle of the lugs have been carefully considered, and the watch is relatively thin at just 11mm, so it fits perfectly. The strap is made from textile recycled from discarded fishing nets, which also helps prevent marine pollution.

Diameter 42mm. Automatic. Stainless steel case. Price: 1,529,000 yen.

[New: New Release] Freak [X OPS]

The mechanism and appearance of the arm make a strong statement.

The mechanism in which a huge minute hand with a balance wheel and escapement rotates around the dial once every hour is a modern reinterpretation of the carousel mechanism found in pocket watches. Beneath the circle in the center of the dial lies a huge barrel containing the mainspring.

The case encasing the unique movement is made of DLC-treated titanium. The combination of this case with side parts made of a unique carbon-based composite material that gives it a marbled texture creates a unique appearance. This watch demonstrates the originality of the Maison in both its mechanical and cosmetic aspects.

43mm diameter. Automatic movement. Titanium and carbon composite case. Price: 5,159,000 yen.