Gourmet: Learn from the past and create something new: Gaienmae CENSU TOKYO, a fusion of Japanese, Chinese and French cuisine, reimports overseas izakaya culture

BRUTUS' popular series introduces restaurants by theme. This time, the theme is "Reiwa Mixture." "IZAKAYA" is a Hong Kong restaurant run by a chef with a French background. Led by a chef who has worked on the international stage, the creations born from his solid skills and background are sure to become classics of the future. Enter a new world of flavors that can be enjoyed casually.

photo: Shin-ichi Yokoyama / text: Kei Sasaki

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CENSU TOKYO (Gaienmae)

A fusion of Japanese, Chinese and French izakaya culture, imported back into Japan

From the dishes reminiscent of the overseas IZAKAYA to the atmosphere where fluent English is spoken among the staff, it has an international feel. Chef Shun Sato, who trained at one-star Belon in Hong Kong, opened CENSU in 2021 and immediately became a hit, expanding to Tokyo and delighting diners both in Japan and abroad.

In the kitchen is Chef Kinsu Fumiyuki, who worked in classic French cuisine at restaurants such as Restaurant Tateru Yoshino (now closed) before moving to Hong Kong, where he has worked at modern Vietnamese restaurants and Hong Kong's CENSU.

The combination of French cuisine with Chinese and Japanese tastes is a common theme in both the Hong Kong and Tokyo restaurants, but Chef Kanesu's roots and career make him a perfect embodiment of this.

The fresh fish and duck are prepared with the skills of a chef who studied French cuisine in Japan, and the chicken paella has an Asian aroma. The restaurant brings together young chefs and service staff who have worked on the world stage, and the unconventional and attentive hospitality hints at a new era.

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