Connecting producers, bartenders, and drinkers. Memento Mori by Nagumo Shuzo

He travels to the birthplaces of alcohol and ingredients in the East and West, connecting people and creating new flavors and cultures. He moves freely in pursuit of the perfect drink. That's why cocktails are so fascinating. Let's talk to Nagumo Shuzo of memento mori, who is at the forefront of the current era.

photo: Shinsaku Kato / txet: BRUTUS, Nobuko Terada

Before the store opens, a flask of green liquid slowly circulates in a machine in a corner of the store. Tea leaves are steeped in spirits, and then the liquid is re-distilled at low temperatures in this evaporator (vacuum still). This is the preparation scene at Nagumo Shuzo's bar.

"Among spirits, for example, vodka is like a clean white sheet of paper to me. Tequila is like rough drawing paper, and gin is like light-colored paper. I want to paint pictures on it."

Inside memento mori in Tokyo
Each of the five bars in Tokyo has its own purpose and function. This is a space where you can enjoy cacao cocktails with all five senses.

Cacao is a fruit. We recreate it in our own way as a liquid.

Mixology has expanded the boundaries of cocktails by utilizing techniques, equipment, and interpretations not used in traditional bars, such as centrifuges and sous vide cooking. This is Nagumo's paintbrush. He has been an early adopter of the word mixology, and even includes it in the name of his bar. However, it goes beyond the techniques involved; the significance of what goes into each glass is profound.

"Cocktails don't just taste good; they need a background to make them impact people and last. I believe a bar is not just a place to enjoy your personal time, but a place that stimulates various aspects of intellectual curiosity. Cacao, sake, and tea have all been produced for millennia, and every year, different makers create something different. I'm drawn to things that are profound and endless."

A bar is a place for sharing the experience of discovery. Visitors to Memento Mori will encounter unexpected aspects of cacao.

"We also consider the nature and culture of the region that produces cacao. In particular, when I encountered the pulp, I felt that the possibilities were endless. I wanted to recreate this fruity flavor in our own way in a drink."

In addition to cacao, one of the things they are currently focusing on is developing cocktails using tea leaves. The bar they opened as a specialty bar, Ginza Mixology Salon, is currently attracting many guests from overseas and is so popular that it is difficult to make reservations. With an eye on future overseas expansion, they opened a branch in Singapore this year. It is still rare for a purely Japanese venture to open a bar overseas.

"Eventually, I'd like to open a bar that makes full use of automation and other technologies. Also, I'm always thinking about wellness. People tend to think that alcohol and health are inversely proportional, but I want to break that and create value in cocktails that goes beyond just getting you drunk. So that people who drink alcohol can choose non-alcoholic drinks without hesitation. The word 'without hesitation' is important."

Another area that Nagumo is actively involved in is the development of new products for "national alcohol," namely sake and shochu. He has collaborated with many breweries on promotions and events.

"I always think about whether the cocktail will be beneficial to the people on the other side of the cocktail. Will it benefit the producers? Will it contribute to improving the quality of the product and to culture? Without a relationship of trust, it would be impossible to discuss even the smallest details of production."

He is still receiving a steady stream of job offers from overseas, including Italy, Georgia, Bangkok, and Hong Kong. He is also teaming up with fashion brands, culinary societies, trade organizations like JETRO, Japanese tea producers, sake breweries, and other companies and organizations that would normally have little connection to bars. He is a great facilitator, or rather, he is good at connecting people.

"Thanks to you, our business is growing at a good pace, and we're getting more projects. We also develop menus and supervise cocktails, and we have enough staff to handle catering, so people think, 'We're the company to turn to when they have a problem.' Perhaps this means that cocktails are now in demand in a wider range of situations."

I want to continue working to improve society until the day I die.

From the beginning, Nagumo-san has been thinking about the business viability of the bar in order to expand the organization. As a craftsman and company manager, the bar, where he makes full use of his skills, sometimes doubles as an office.

"Bars are a frontier. There's a wide range of fields to explore, not just alcohol, but design, art, education, content... And as a place to give shape to these things, I'm only interested in bars. Although at one point I did say that I wanted to open a curry bread shop... (laughs). Our company mission is to 'turn all liquids into cocktails.' I mean, including cultural backgrounds."

During the COVID-19 pandemic, there was a time when he was busy disseminating information about subsidies and other matters to his colleagues, and negotiating with the National Tax Agency.

"My company's stance is to operate based on order and morality, rather than self-centeredness. During that time, we thoroughly trained our staff, inviting bartenders as instructors. Everyone talks about sustainability, but I think the sustainability of people is what's important."

We will properly regulate the working conditions of our staff, including working hours and wages. We have also created a system in which the company partially covers the costs of childcare, housework support, and skills training. We also want to increase our credibility as a company, so that it is easier for everyone to obtain a home loan.

"We want to be a benchmark for a company where staff can work with peace of mind and with a comfortable working environment. Any company may think this way, but I believe that we must raise the bar level across the entire bar industry."

He states that the guiding principle behind his company and himself is social significance.

"I want to be useful. I want to continue working to improve society until the day I die. To that end, myself, the company, and my staff will all work hard and exert our abilities, and we will happily convert this into value in our work. When working in this way, the most important thing is to respect people. Whether it's an organization or a customer, we start by fully understanding how they do things, and then we think about what to do next."

For example, in the case of the "Gyokuro Martini," one of his signature creations, the goal is to create a drink that is "clear yet overflowing with the flavor of Gyokuro." Mixology, which involves respecting ingredients and carefully considering methods, is also Nagumo's philosophy in life.

Tokyo Memento Mori entrance
The bar "memento mori" was inspired by an encounter with the rich pulp of cacao, and even expresses the culture of the region where it is produced.

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