Naoki Ikeda and Shigeru Kaneko's My Rules for Down

Downwear is essential for keeping warm in winter. Should you get a jacket for extreme cold or a vest that can be worn all year round? Stylist Naoki Ikeda and Chief Buyer Shigeru Shigeru Kaneko of Beams Plus have their own rules for choosing and incorporating downwear.

This article is currently available as a special feature from BRUTUS' "GOOD STYLE for Mr. BRUTUS Autumn to Winter Wardrobe. 2025-26 A/W" (on sale September 16, 2025). For more details, click here.

photo: Go Tanabe / edit: Keiichiro Miyata / props: AWABEES

Naoki Ikeda's My Rules

Wear a sweater tied around your waist and tuck your down jacket inside

I usually travel by car a lot, so I usually wear a thin vest-type down jacket, which I also use as an inner down jacket.

Due to the nature of my job, I get to see all kinds of layering when I help models change their clothes, and one time a teenage model came to a shoot wearing a thin down vest underneath a low-gauge sweater. The fluffy down jacket didn't affect her outer layer at all, so I was shocked when I saw it! I thought it was a great idea to broaden the range of outfits available, especially in Japan, where autumn is shorter than usual, and how to survive the long winter clothes lifestyle.

I just bought a used sweater from Banana Republic, so I'd like to wear it a lot using this styling technique.

WESTERN MOUNTAINEERING
I bought an ultra-lightweight down vest from Western Mountaineering, which was founded in California in 1970, about 15 years ago, when the term "inner down" still felt fresh. It's a classic that's still available today, and it's still made with ripstop nylon, woven with ultra-fine threads at a high density to prevent down from escaping.

Coordinated Items

Choosing pants based on the advice of 70s climbers
Since down jackets are originally outdoor gear, they seem to pair well with heavy-duty pants. From the left, moleskin pants from 〈COMOLI〉, duck pants from 〈Wrangler〉, and jeans from 〈LL Bean〉.

Shigeru Kaneko 's My Rules

Change the hood and enjoy unique color combinations

Winter is definitely the most fun time to wear fashion. The main attraction is the down jacket. My "down jacket season" starts in December. From then until the end of February, I cycle through my nearly 60 vintage down jackets, wearing them once and then switching to the next one.

My favorite is the so-called North Face parka, released in the 1970s. It comes in the brand's signature yellow, known as Acapulco Gold. I bought a navy hoodie for this jacket in New York, so I swapped it out to create a two-tone look.

Arranging color schemes like this has been my thing since last year. Even if the product numbers and brands are different, as long as they are made in the same region and era, it's surprisingly fun to switch them up.

THE NORTH FACE
The North Face Parka was developed for dog sleds during Alaskan exploration. He fell in love with the Acapulco Gold colorway, available from the early to mid-1970s, and bought it. This model is made from lightweight nylon ripstop. It was later updated to a tougher Bayhead cloth, but Kaneko still values its lightness and wears it regularly.

Coordinated Items

Use the same color scheme as your down jacket
The colorful sports shirts and rugby shirts worn underneath are made of sturdy fabric and became popular in the American outdoor scene around the 1970s, and the styling follows this story.
From left: HORI, Nishino Daishi, Kitamura Keiko, Matsushima Daisuke, Shigeru Kaneko, and Ikeda Naoki.

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