A bookstore and jazz club reborn. Siwilai Sound Club, where you can immerse yourself in the origins of Bangkok's cultural district

Central, one of Thailand's largest department store groups, had its origins in a colonial-style building built on Charoen Krung Road in 1952. Across from the store, which started out as a foreign-language bookstore, was Thailand's first jazz club, fostering the town's culture. We visit Siwilai Sound Club, which continues the memory of that founding.

photo: Satoko Imazu / text: Taku Takemura

Central is one of Thailand's largest department store groups. The founding family's history began in 1952 with a colonial-style building built on Charoen Krung Road, the oldest paved road in Bangkok.

"My grandfather, who emigrated from Hainan, China after World War II, opened Thailand's first foreign-language bookstore, which also sold daily necessities. Across the street was Thailand's first jazz club, and this neighborhood was the birthplace of the town's culture," says Tay Barom.

He oversees Ploenchit's Central Embassy and operates select shops and clubs under his own brand, Siwilai. In 2020, he revived the building, which he had rented out after expanding and renovating it, as Central: The Original Store.

First, they commissioned Belgian architect Vincent Van Duysen to renovate the building. The new building facing Charoen Krung Road houses a rare bookshop, library, gallery and restaurant. The old building facing the back street houses a jazz club and music bar. The interiors of the restaurant, jazz club and bar were designed by Tripster, run by Kunichi Nomura, a longtime friend of Tay.

Interior of Siwilai Sound Club, Bangkok
The record bar on the second floor, designed by Tripster, is a space filled with bright red lighting, giving it a different feel from the first floor.

"We turned the first floor into a bookstore to return to the origins of our family business. We built a jazz club as a tribute to the history and culture of the area. The cultural activities of young people in recent years have been remarkable. I feel fortunate to be involved in this scene."

Looking down from above, you can see the old and new buildings connected by a glass roof, which Tay said with a smile seems like a symbol connecting the past and the future.

Bangkok's Siwilai Sound Club live performance
Performing on the first floor was Joel David Guzman, a jazz vocalist originally from Boston and now based in Bangkok, with his band 4LBS.

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