In search of the first landscapes of humankind, he ventures underground. The adventures of cave explorer Yoshida Katsuji

There are adventurers who not only find themselves in harsh environments, but also sometimes risk their lives, but never give up on their challenges. What motivates them, and what gives them joy? Yoshida Katsuji, a cave explorer who won the 29th Uemura Naomi Adventure Award, shares his adventure story and the reasons behind it.

photo: Katsuji Yoshida / text: Yuriko Kobayashi / illustration: Yoshifumi Takeda (map)

100% pure exploration, where you don't know what lies ahead

At a time when the unknown world is disappearing from maps, there is one man who continues to see landscapes never before seen by humankind, as if he has them all to himself: cave explorer Katsuji Yoshida.

"When you're climbing a mountain, you can see the top of the mountain, but with a cave you can't see from the outside, and you don't even know where the entrance is. It's common to start off with an idea that the entrance hole might be somewhere around here, only to find that it's a dead end after 5 meters. Conversely, there are times when a hole you weren't expecting at all leads deep into the cavern and turns out to be a huge cavern. You can't see what kind of world lies beyond it on a map or with the naked eye, and you can't even imagine it. Caves are filled with the absolute unknown, which can only be seen by diving into the hole."

Golondrinas Caves, Mexico
Golondrinas Cave in Mexico. Descending a 400m-deep vertical hole on a single rope. What if the anchor on the ground that holds the rope in place comes loose? The fear never completely disappears.

Of course, it's pitch black inside the cave. Communication with the outside world is completely cut off, and there's a constant risk of rockfalls and flooding. People set up camp in such conditions and sometimes stay there for more than a month.

"In caves where there are few living creatures, anything humans bring in could have a serious impact on the ecosystem. We collect excrement in tanks and bring it back to the surface, and if we have to defecate in a place where there are no tanks, we put the contents in an airtight bag and hide it between our helmets and heads. If we put it in our backpacks, the bag gets compressed when we go through narrow passages and leaks. It's a little inconvenient, but once you get used to it, it's fine."

Before I knew it, I had been doing it for over 30 years.

"You see, I don't like caves. I just love the unknown and unexplored world, and I just want to see it. Nowadays, caves are the only unknown and unexplored world, so I have no choice but to do it (laughs)."

As a child, he had a lot of energy and was always fighting. After dropping out of high school and working at a construction site, he decided to take up mountain climbing. Not satisfied with the harsh winter mountain climbing, he tried many outdoor activities such as scuba diving, but nothing really caught his eye. That's when he discovered cave exploration.

"I don't like dark places, and I thought caves were too scary! But I'll never forget the excitement I felt when I crawled through an unnamed hole in Aichi Prefecture and suddenly emerged into a space about the size of a four-and-a-half-tatami mat room. I was shocked by the overwhelming power of the cave, as if the world had suddenly opened up before my eyes. This was what I had been looking for."

Unexplored underground river in Laos - Cave explorer Katsuji Yoshida
Exploring an unexplored underground river in Laos by packraft. In the pitch black darkness, the only light is a cap light attached to your head. In case of a malfunction, carry several spares.

30 minutes left to die! The decision made underwater that decided his fate

Since then, I have been exploring nameless caves both in Japan and abroad. Most of these are spaces that humans have never set foot in before. I descend to the underground via a single rope from an entrance that is higher than Tokyo Tower. I also navigate in a packraft through a river inside the cave that may fill with water if it rains.

The passages are completely filled with water, and the explorers have to dive underwater with air tanks on their backs. Cave exploration requires advanced knowledge and skills related to mountains, oceans, rivers, and all other outdoor activities. The fact that it is sometimes done alone makes it even more dangerous.

"Diving is especially dangerous. Your tank or your body gets caught in a narrow passageway and you can't move. At that moment, your mind starts a stopwatch. You have 30 minutes of air left. If you can't escape within that time, you're dead."

I have felt the presence of death many times in my life, and what I have learned from these experiences is that "humans have choices."

"I have a choice: I can spend the remaining 30 minutes panicking and raging, or I can calmly think of a way to escape and execute it. So it's better to come up with a solution that will allow me to survive in the shortest time possible. Previously, when I got stuck underwater, I knew I couldn't go back, but I could go forward, so I moved forward without hesitation. But I didn't know if there was a place up ahead where I could pop my head out of the water. But I had no choice but to do it. Luckily, I came out into a place with about 2 meters of space between the water's surface and the ceiling, so I got myself ready and headed back. When I returned to where I started my dive, I had no air left. I was lucky to have survived, that's all."

He himself says that "it's not surprising that I could die at any moment," but he still goes into caves because his longing for the unknown outweighs his fear. His next target is a high mountain in a certain country, 3,600 meters above sea level. He will descend about 2,300 meters down a vertical hole into what is believed to be the deepest cave in the world.

Cave of Minamidaito Island, Okinawa Prefecture Cave explorer Yoshida Katsuji
A cave on Minamidaito Island in Okinawa Prefecture is said to be connected to the sea. I am exploring the underground water vein that originates from this underground lake about 300 meters deep. One of my life's work is to light up the cave and photograph it.

"At this very moment, heavy rain could be falling somewhere, washing away the mud inside a cave and creating a path to an incredible space. The underground space is constantly changing, and it's a treasure trove of the unknown and unexplored. When I think about that, I just can't stop exploring caves!"

A trip to a place where you can experience Yoshida's adventures

Gifu Prefecture Exploration Cave Map
Exploration Cave, Gifu Prefecture
This cave is located in the Kakino River basin in Yamagata City, Gifu Prefecture. It can only be entered on a caving tour run by Chikyu Tankensha, which Yoshida represents, and involves exploring to reach the underground lake that sparkles with crystal blue light. "There are courses that even beginners can enjoy safely, so if you're interested in caves, I recommend it. However, exploring without a guide is dangerous, so please do not do so under any circumstances," says Yoshida.

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