Gourmet: Kayabacho's MARUYAMA is a cultural hub izakaya with a water theme.

This is a popular series in BRUTUS introducing restaurants by theme. This time, the theme is "Japanese Sake Feelings." As sake and shochu breweries continue to evolve with an eye to the future, with a return to the classics and innovation, an increasing number of establishments are offering a variety of ways to enjoy Japanese sake. The spirit of conveying culture shines through. Start here to discover the modern appreciation of Japanese sake.

photo: Shin-ichi Yokoyama / text: Kei Sasaki

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MARUYAMA (Kayabacho)

The theme is water. A cultural hub and izakaya.

Tomohiro Maruyama, who runs a number of successful restaurants across genres, including the Yoyogi Uehara bistro Maison Cinquante Cinq, is currently working on a new bar that will curate local sake, food culture, and tableware from all over Japan.

We focus on traditional and innovative brewers of shochu and sake, and suggest ways to enjoy shochu with food, such as by mixing it with a maewari (a Japanese shochu drink).

The theme of the restaurant is "water," as the bounty of the mountains and seas is "abundant water," as is the sake brewing process. Tastes that depend on water are the mainstay of the restaurant, such as shumai made with free-range pork from Azumino City, Nagano Prefecture, a village of pure streams, and tofu from a long-established store.

Even classic dishes such as sashimi and chilled tofu are enhanced with the sensibility of a French chef, accented with herb puree and oil, and the clever combination of ingredients.

This is the culmination of Maruyama's work to date, having pioneered the updating of the izakaya at Lantern in Ikejiri-Ohashi and proposing craft shochu that can be enjoyed like wine. While preserving the old townscape, it suits the ever-changing Nihonbashi area well.

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