Gourmet: Learn from the past and create something new: Kagurazaka Vietnamese food stall Mekuruso offers pop-style small dishes and natural wine

This popular series in BRUTUS introduces restaurants by theme. This time, the theme is "Vietnamese food with wine." Vietnamese food and wine have many common elements, such as the aroma of herbs and citrus fruits, a spicy taste, and sweet and sour flavors, making them a perfect match. Vietnamese standing bars that serve small plates and natural wine are also very convenient.

photo: Shin-ichi Yokoyama / text: Mamiko Kume

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Vietnamese food stall Mekuruso (Kagurazaka)

Enjoy small plates and natural wine in a pop atmosphere

When Akiyama Tomoki came across an old wooden house in Kagurazaka, also known as Little Paris, he had an idea that Vietnamese cuisine, which was a French colony, would be the perfect combination, and he opened a standing bar where customers could easily interact with each other.

As they advertise themselves as a food stall, they offer small portions of all the dishes, with the aim of "making it easy for customers to enjoy 3-4 dishes." The arrangements are also excellent, with fresh spring rolls paired with shrimp and peanut sauce, and tuna and sesame sauce. The wine me, a scaled-down version of banh mi, is ingeniously crafted by using apple juice as a pickle and prosciutto instead of chicken ham, to complement the wine perfectly.

"Vietnamese cuisine has few spicy dishes and uses a lot of fresh vegetables, herbs, and fruits, so it matches well with natural wines that have similar nuances," says Akiyama. The Vietnamese-style yakitori, pho soup, and chicken ham topping, with their refreshing lemongrass aroma, are brimming with the unique taste of Akiyama, who has experience working at a yakitori restaurant.

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