Travel outside of Seoul to the art areas scattered across Jeju Island

Jeju is a major resort area that is home to one of Korea's natural world heritage sites and is also known as the "Hawaii of Korea." However, in recent years, Jeju has become primarily an island of art.

photo: Kazufumi Shimoyashiki / text: Ryota Mukai / coordination: Kiriri

Stone, water, and wind in Jeju. The work of architect Jun Itami

Have you heard of M Building (now Barbizon 74)?

The impressive office building, with its stone walls resembling the outer walls of a castle, still stands between Akasaka and Nogizaka in Tokyo. It was designed by architect Yoo Dong-ryong, who was born in Tokyo as a second-generation Korean resident of Japan and also went by the pseudonym Itami Jun. He based his activities on Jeju Island from around 2000 until his later years. His daughter, architect Yoo Ewha, explains the reason for this:

"My father was fascinated by the island's nature. The nearly 400 oreum hills, large and small, the basalt formed from volcanic magma, the strong winds and unpredictable weather. What's more, even though it's a small island, the environment is completely different between the north and south, and between the east and west, so it's never boring. Attracted by the charms of this land, many artists have moved to Jeju. My father was one of them."

One of his works is the Panju Church. The way the water surrounding the church sways in the wind makes it look like an ark is being launched. It is truly a church of wind and water. These works are also archived at the Itami Jun Museum of Art. Ifa, who designed it, says, "I would be happy if people could feel the nature of this island through my father's work and the museum garden."

Vibrant colors and ever-changing soil. Check out the market

Jun Itami is not the only artist who has been captivated by this island. The Korean painting master Lee Wal-Jon is also one of them. He was captivated by the rich colors of nature.

After studying ink painting and teaching at an art university, he moved to Seogwipo, a resort town on the south side of the island, in the 1990s. Since then, his style has completely changed, from monochrome to color, and from two-dimensional to three-dimensional. He opened the Walzon Museum, which brings together all the colorful works he has created in this area.

Some people continue the tradition. Damhwahong, run by Jeong Mi-seon and Kang Seung-cheol, is a pottery manufacturer that produces earthenware, or onggi, made from Jeju clay. They create pots, vases, tableware, and more, while studying the onggi used by their parents' generation in the 1960s.

Jeju clay is rich in iron, so when the temperature is just right, the surface is coated with charcoal from the kiln, eliminating the need for glaze and ensuring that no two pieces are ever the same.

If you're looking for art that's deeply rooted in everyday life, head to the long-established local market. Jeju Folk Five-Day Market is over 100 years old and boasts over 1,000 stores.

In addition to restaurants and grocery stores, you can find everything you need for daily life, from traditional clothing such as galok to rain jackets used by the island's fishermen, baskets, knives, and other everyday items. Jeju folk art is here.

It takes about 15 minutes to an hour by taxi from Tapton, and costs no more than 50,000 won to get there. The mountain ranges and grazing horses seen from the car window add to the excitement of the trip.

Art and architecture make Jeju's future exciting! Visit museums that are boosting the art scene

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