Enjoy fresh milk ice cream in the city, at night, or on a farm. 7 truly delicious ice creams in Hokkaido

Head to Hokkaido in search of truly delicious ice cream. Enjoy the pleasure of tasting ice cream made with fresh ingredients such as milk, fruit, and vegetables in the place where it is produced, while thinking about the history and culture of ice cream.

photo:: Jun Nakagawa / text: Masae Wako

Creamy ranch soft serve that melts in your mouth (Biei Free-Range Dairy Farm, Biei Farm)

Soft serve ice cream made with farm milk. What a sweet phrase. Our journey begins in the Biei/Furano area, located in the center of Hokkaido. Fertile soil, clear water, and raw milk from dairy cows raised on high-quality pasture. There's no way the ice cream from this town won't be delicious.

Our first stop was Biei Free-Range Dairy Farm, located in a hilly area about 30 minutes by car from Asahikawa Airport. The farm, where four types of cows graze, is adjacent to a factory and cafe.

Biei Free-Range Dairy Farm, Biei Farm
At Biei Free-Range Dairy Farm, overlooking the Tokachi Mountain Range, four breeds of dairy cows - Jersey, Holstein, Montbéliard, and Brown Swiss - are pastured. Soft serve ice cream is made from the raw milk from these cows.

The soft serve ice cream made with fresh raw milk is fluffy, sweet, and rich, just like eating the finest fresh cream. However, it has a refreshing aftertaste. One little girl was surprised, saying, "The ice cream disappeared in my mouth!" And indeed, when you lick it, it melts instantly on your tongue and turns back into milk.

"The only ingredients are raw milk and sugar. Unlike the general method, we use a vacuum concentration method to slowly remove the moisture over time, resulting in a rich and pure soft serve ice cream," says a staff member.

Happa Gelato: A gelateria that takes its ingredients seriously

Meanwhile, at Happa Gelato near Furano Station, former pastry chef Takashi Fujikawa makes gelato using seasonal fruits and vegetables.

"The appeal of Furano is that farms are located within a 15-minute radius. Even perishable fruits can be delivered fresh, picked that morning."

For example, organically grown asparagus is made into gelato with just the right amount of fiber left intact. Not only is it juicy, but the aroma and texture change in your mouth, which is surprising. The gelato made with strawberries from local farms has a sweet and sour taste that is more like strawberry than real strawberries, and is irresistible.

It's a heartwarming sight to see junior high school students coming home from club activities happily eating the product that took so much time and effort. "Maybe I should make it a three-color platter." It's wonderful how ice cream has become a part of everyday life.

Enjoy the gentle flavor of "Taisho Roman Ice Cream" for 100 years at Ice Cream Parlor Misono

Enjoy Taisho-era ice cream at a parlor in the port town of Otaru

"I would have been hooked on the sweet and crunchy ice cream."
About two and a half hours by car from Furano, in the Miyako-dori shopping arcade of the canal town of Otaru, there is a panel that depicts the Meiji-era diplomat Takeaki Enomoto's fantasy of "what if he were alive in Otaru today." "Shakkoi" is an Otaru dialect word meaning cold.

This town once thrived as a port town, bustling with imported culture, and it was here that Ice Cream Parlor Misono was the first to manufacture and sell ice cream in Hokkaido. It was apparently handcrafted in 1919 based on a recipe passed down from a crew member on a foreign ship. Japan's first industrialized ice cream business began in Fukagawa, Tokyo in 1920, so this would make it even earlier.

The two types of ice cream, which have remained unchanged for 100 years, have a refreshing taste made with Hokkaido milk, iodized eggs, acacia honey, and citrus fruits. "When I listened to the stories of local grandmothers who knew them back then, they said that on good days, they would often say, 'I'm going to Misono for some ice cream.' Because it's made only with natural ingredients, you won't feel thirsty afterwards. It's as refreshing as a drink."

The fourth-generation owner, Urushidani Toshiaki, is also a pastry chef who honed his skills in France. However, he said, "I don't want to change the atmosphere of the shop or the taste. The food might become even more delicious if we incorporate new ideas, but I also want to pass on the precious memories of the people of the town."

Hokkaido ice cream is also diversifying. Head to Sapporo, the hotbed of sweets.

After a leisurely trip to Biei, Furano, and Otaru, we head to Sapporo, the epicenter of ice cream. Hakko Gakuen Farm Produce Direct Sales Center is popular for its exquisite soft serve ice cream, which sells 2,500 pieces a day. Students and faculty raise cows and also grow the grass and corn they feed. Everything from milking to processing is handled in-house. The secret to its deliciousness is likely the ability to process freshly squeezed raw milk immediately.

A refreshing soft serve ice cream that recreates the flavor of freshly squeezed milk (Hakko Gakuen Farmers Market)

Tsukisappu soft serve ice cream (cone) made with freshly squeezed milk is 400 yen each. Cups are also available.

"Our dairy cows eat grass and grains, so our milk has a milder flavor than grass-fed milk from cows that are raised on grass alone, and should be more to the taste of Japanese people," says the cow specialist. Indeed, the soft serve ice cream is rich but has no unpleasant odor, and has a clean taste that melts easily.

Gelateria Cremerice: A local favorite and highly skilled gelato shop

Gelateria Cremerice is an impressive place where you can see the passion for pursuing such a "beautiful taste"! The owner, Tokuichi Horiya, is a native of Yoichi Town in central Hokkaido, and is a gelato artisan who has traveled to gelato shops all over Italy and Japan with the sole purpose of making authentic gelato using fresh local ingredients.

After much research, they arrived at a subtle sweetness and smooth texture. When you try the apple sorbet, the texture of the apple skin and honey-like sweetness will make your cheeks melt, and the cool, gentle milk gelato feels amazing as it goes down your throat.

On the left is walnuts from Hokkaido, and on the right is fresh milk made with fresh, pasteurized milk from Hokkaido. A two-piece cone set costs 550 yen.

Sapporo's holy land of "shime-parfait" (finishing off a meal) has evolved into a more comfortable place (parfait, coffee, sake, sato)

Well, for our final stop, we'd like to finish off our trip in the heart of Sapporo. If you want to finish off your day in style, head to Parfait, Coffee, Sake, Sato, the driving force behind the booming Shime-parfait culture. The new store, which moved in April 2024, offers authentic parfaits and drinks as a second stop after dinner, as well as parfaits for lunch or after work.

Salted caramel and pistachio 1,712 yen. Paired with Tokachi brandy "Shima Fukuro" 1,980 yen.

A must-visit: A dazzling ice cream bar for adults〈Ice Cream Bar HOKKAIDO Milk Village〉

If you want to get lost in a new world, head to Susukino's Ice Cream Bar HOKKAIDO Milk Mura. Established in 1995, choose two or three drinks from the selection on display and pour a drop onto a scoop of soft serve ice cream. The flavor changes dramatically, making it a fun experience!

It's amazing to think that the "alcohol and ice cream" trend that has recently become popular in Paris and Tokyo was conceived and put into practice 29 years ago, with the idea of "introducing the deliciousness of good alcohol and milk at the same time."

The fancy entrance makes your heart race.

Looking back on my travels, I discovered a wide variety of ice creams in the northern land. Daytime ice cream, nighttime ice cream, city ice cream, and ice cream from farms and agricultural schools. This variety is also the secret to its deliciousness, and the irresistible appeal of Hokkaido for ice cream lovers.

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