BRUTUS Watch Brand Studies Vol.49〈Glashütte Original〉

This series will introduce each important brand you need to know about from the world of mechanical watches, which is deeper than the ocean. Taking into account the history and characteristics, we will introduce one of the brand's iconic "masterpieces" as well as one of the noteworthy "new releases" that have been released over the past year. With each lecture, you will learn more about watches. Watch journalist Norio Takagi will be the lecturer. The 49th installment will be Glashütte Original.

text: Norio Takagi / illustration: Shinji Abe

To the list of serials

A German watchmaker who continues to carry on tradition

Glashütte, a town in northeastern Germany located in a valley in the Erzgebirge mountain range that borders the Czech Republic, prospered thanks to the watch industry that was introduced to the country in the mid-19th century. However, following the division of Germany into East and West after World War II, all of the local watch manufacturers and related companies were merged into the Glashütte State Watchmaking Company (GUB).

GUB was privatized in 1990, when Germany was reunified. In 1994, the company made a fresh start under the brand name Glashütte Original. The name represents the pride of the company in its uninterrupted history of watchmaking in this region, and refers to the founding year of 1845, when the first watch workshop opened in Glashütte.

From the start of its relaunch, the company developed beautiful in-house movements in accordance with the Saxon style, such as a three-quarter plate that covers the parts on the case back, a hand-engraved balance bridge, and a swan-neck regulator. After becoming a subsidiary of the Swatch Group in 2000, the company made capital investments and has continued to captivate watch enthusiasts with its increasingly complex and sophisticated mechanisms.

While they specialize in classic watches modeled after pocket watches from the 19th century, they are also popular for their somewhat rough construction and retro design models from the GUB era. They have the facilities to manufacture their cases and dials in-house, and they produce 95% of all their watch parts in-house. This high in-house production rate is proof of their high quality. It is also a point of pride for the watch masters that all their models are equipped with in-house mechanical movements.

In 2002, the company re-established a watchmaking school on its headquarters premises, and in 2008, with the support of the city, opened the German Watch Museum, contributing to the revival of the watch industry. Glashütte Original will continue to keep the torch of German-made luxury watches alive.

[Signature: Masterpiece] SeaQ Chronograph

A diver's watch that inherits the legacy of the GUB era

SeeQ Chronograph


A new chronograph has been added to the brand's first diver's watch, "SeaQ," which was launched in 2019. The base design is based on the diver's watch developed by GUB in 1969. The concentric hairline finish on the case is also the same as that of the original.

The retro feel of the large indexes and hands is further emphasized by the two-counter chronograph design. The large date display, Panorama Date, symbolizing the brand, is placed at the 6 o'clock position, adding a modern touch. This is a genuine watch that complies with DIN (German Industrial Standard) diver's watch standards.

Diameter 43.2mm, automatic movement, stainless steel case. Price: 2,123,000 yen.

New: Senator Excellence Panorama Date Moon Phase

Classical modern asymmetric design

Senator Excellence Panorama Date Moon Phase

The Senator is the brand's most classic collection, and while this model retains classic details such as Roman numerals, their outer railway tracks, and spade-shaped hands, it also adds a touch of innovation with the irregular diagonal placement of the panorama date and moon phase.

The new gray dial is a genuine grained finish created by repeatedly brushing a paste made from silver powder, salt, and water onto the metal base, creating a glossy finish, and then applying a gray galvanic treatment (hot-dip plating) to create a genuine grained finish. The moon phase requires no adjustment for 122 years, making it an outstanding mechanism.

40mm diameter, automatic movement, stainless steel case. 1,716,000 yen.

To the list of serials

SHARE ON

FEATURED MOVIES
Featured Videos

BRUTUS
OFFICIAL SNS
Brutus Official SNS

FEATURED MOVIES
Featured Videos