Creating clothes for beautiful undressing: A job as a costume designer at the strip theater Asakusa Rockza

There is someone who is seriously concerned with "undressing beautifully." He is Noya, the costume designer for the strip theater Asakusa Rockza, who creates as many as 180 costumes a year. We asked him to guide us through the unknown world of strip costumes.

photo: Satoko Imazu / text: Yoko Hasada / edit: Sho Kasahara

Clothes are something that we "put on." They hide and protect our bodies, sometimes adding a touch of glamour and sometimes expressing ourselves. However, there is a type of clothing in this world that is "put on" in order to be "taken off." These are striptease costumes. Having heard rumors that the oldest surviving strip theater in Japan, founded in 1947 (Showa 22), has its own in-house costume designer, I visited Asakusa Rockza.

The passionate days of producing around 180 garments a year

Noya is the exclusive costume designer for Asakusa Rockza. In fact, he studied criminal psychology during his university days and worked as a teacher in a special education classroom. One day seven years ago, a friend invited him, saying, "It sounds interesting, do you want to come with me?" So he casually went to the theater and was instantly captivated. Since then, he has been frequenting the theater, and naturally began to think, "I want to work in this worldview."

"I'd only made clothes as a hobby, and had absolutely no work experience. Teaching special education classes was a long-held dream of mine and a job I was proud of, but I couldn't suppress my desire to work at Rockza. I approached the theater staff directly and luckily there was an opening, so I was able to join."

At first, she taught herself how to make costumes, sometimes getting advice from dancers while operating the sewing machine. However, when the company president learned that she was frustrated and worried about wanting to make more complete costumes, he offered to support her by saying, "If you want to go to school, I'll pay for your tuition."

"I started attending Bunka Fashion College in 2019. I went to school from morning until 5pm, went to Rockza at night, did assignments and work late into the night, and then went to school without sleep. It was hard, but I somehow managed to graduate. At school, I was taught the basics of costume making, from the structure of the human body to how to draw patterns and how to handle materials, and after graduating, my way of making costumes has completely changed."

Asakusa Rockza, Trump soldier costumes for the "Wonderland" performance
The first costume she made was a card soldier for the "Wonderland" performance. It was a costume for the back dancers. "All I had to do was cut it into a square and sew it, so it was relatively easy even for a beginner like me (laughs). To be honest, I wish I could redo everything I made before I started attending the school."
She began participating fully as part of the costume department around the time of the 2018 performance of "Earth Beat." It was her first time making costumes using satin and sequin fabric, and she has bitter memories of the fabric fading and the dancers' bodies turning pink. "A veteran dancer taught me, 'In times like this, it helps to stick some felt on the inside,' and I was able to get through it."

The goal is to create costumes that are stress-free for dancers

By removing the costume, the charm of the dancer is highlighted. Combined with the lighting, the beauty of the body being exposed is exceptional. The dancer is the star on stage, and the costume is one of the tools of the performance, along with the direction, lighting, and music. The dancer must appear more attractive than if they appeared naked.

"The design and appearance are important, but the most important thing is that the dancers can perform to their fullest. For example, the dancers will be changing clothes themselves in the dark when the stage is difficult to see, so we make sure the zippers are strong and have a structure that makes them difficult to get caught on. If there is a zipper on the back, we attach a long string to make it easy to pull down quickly. For dancers with large breasts, we take care to make sure that it does not get caught on anything."

At Asakusa Rockza, the same play is performed up to three times, with the cast changing every 20 days. This means that one costume is worn by three different cast members. To ensure that a dancer's body is shown beautifully, after the final performance, the costume is sometimes remade to fit the next performer's body by noon the following day.

"Another difficult situation was when two dancers with completely different personalities were performing the same piece. A cute dancer was replaced by a cool dancer in the costume, so we created something completely different. We want the dancers to wear costumes that will get them excited, so we do our best."

Asakusa Rockza Work Room
To make it easier for the wearer to take it off by themselves, a long string is attached to the zipper on the back, which is also decorated with rhinestones to make it look more decorative.

There are two types of strip costumes. One is "dance wear," which, as the name suggests, is the costume worn during the dance time before stripping off. The other is "bed wear," which is put on a round tray at the front of the stage and put on before revealing one's body. Asakusa Rockza has a costume department, but it is customary for the dancers to prepare their own bed wear.

"The bed is a space where the dancers are the ones expressing themselves. It's a time to look into the inner side of the dancer, and each dancer creates their own worldview, so I leave the choice of bed clothes up to the dancers."

This time, we spoke to Shiratori Suwan, an active dancer, about her favorite costumes and the bedclothes she ordered herself.

Dancer Swan Shiratori
Dancer Shiratori Suwan. As a former ballerina, she is well known for her graceful movements and sharp dancing.

The process for making bed clothes varies, but in Suwan's case, she often leaves it to the costume shop run by former dancer Ichijo Sayuri.

"I want to dance vigorously even on the bed stage, so I have my bed clothes made with an emphasis on ease of movement. I'll be dancing alone for a long time, so I want to wear something that will get me excited. My favorite is a red lace bed clothes made from fabric I bought in China. When I stand in the center of the stage, the lighting makes my skin look beautiful. Whenever my bed clothes are finished, I rent a studio and study them in front of the mirror over and over again to find the best way to show them and move, and then I come up with the choreography myself."

Noya also praises Ichijo, saying, "Ichijo has a great understanding of how to create outfits that look good on naked bodies, so he creates very beautiful costumes."

The town of Asakusa has regained its former vitality, with queues forming in front of Asakusa Rockza before the doors even open. Asakusa Rockza continues to attract many people, and the costumes used in its performances have attracted attention from frequent fans, who have expressed a desire to see the costumes that have been created so far.

"I'd like to hold a costume exhibition someday. But my first goal is to perfect the research into patterns that are unique to Asakusa Rockza. Every costume designer, from the Shiki Theatre Company to the Takarazuka Revue, has something like a 'secret spice,' so I'd like to complete patterns that allow dancers to dance comfortably and without accidents. In the long term, strip theaters are closing down one after another all over the country, so I would like to contribute in any way I can to ensure that the history of striptease continues into the future."

Asakusa Rockza Costume Department: Noya and Shiratori Swan

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