BRUTUS Watch Brand Studies Vol.45〈Van Cleef & Arpels〉

This series will explain each important brand you need to know about from the world of mechanical watches, which is deeper than the ocean. Taking into account the history and characteristics, we will introduce one of the brand's iconic "masterpieces" as well as one of the noteworthy "new releases" that have been released over the past year. With each lecture, you will learn more about watches. Watch journalist Norio Takagi will be the lecturer. The 45th installment will be Van Cleef & Arpels.

text: Norio Takagi / illustration: Shinji Abe

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A poetic expression of time through jewelry techniques and creativity

The story of the Maison begins in Paris in 1895, when a couple married. Their names were Estelle Arpels and Alfred Van Cleef. Both of them came from families of jewelers, and in 1906, together with Estelle Arpels' brother Salomon Arpels, the three of them founded Van Cleef & Arpels at 22 Place Vendôme in Paris.

The Maison, which began as a luxury jewelry store, has also been producing jewelry watches since the 1910s and has a long history of watchmaking. In 1935, the "Cadenas Watch," featuring a padlock motif that remains one of the Maison's symbols, was born. Then, in 1949, Pierre Arpels, a member of the founding family and involved in management, designed the "PA49" as a wristwatch for himself. This men's watch, with an extremely thin case and a strap fastened with discreet center attachments at the top and bottom of the case, continues to be known as "Pierre Arpels."

The eternal love pledged by Estelle and Alfred in 1895 has remained the theme of the Maison since its founding. Since the 1940s, the Maison has used poetic motifs such as nature, dance, fairies, and couture in its jewelry and watches. These motifs are not limited to decorating cases and dials using a variety of jewelry techniques. For example, a ballerina's tutu serves as the hands, showing the time by expanding and closing. Time is also expressed poetically through mechanisms, such as the hands depicting a man and woman meeting and kissing on a bridge in Paris at midday and midday. Van Cleef & Arpels infuses love and dreams into its watches with its superior jewelry techniques and creativity.

[Signature: Masterpiece] Pierre Arpels Watch

A gentleman's dress watch with understated beauty

Van Cleef & Arpels Pierre Arpels Watch

The understated yet distinctive center attachment and the dial, which combines delicate Roman numerals and ultra-thin bar indexes, are inherited from the PA49, which was born in 1949. Today, Van Cleef & Arpels has modernized it by re-arranging it in a slightly larger 42mm case.

Furthermore, the center of the dial is decorated with a woven fabric pattern called pique, which adds to the gorgeous look. Equipped with an ultra-thin hand-wound movement (2.5mm thick), a proud product of Piaget, which is also part of the Piaget group, the watch has a slim case (only 5mm thick) that can be comfortably placed under a shirt cuff.

42mm diameter, manual winding, 18KWG case. 2,719,200 yen.

[New] Lady Arpels Jour Nuit Watch

The changing sky is beautifully reflected on the dial

Van Cleef & Arpels Lady Arpels Jour Nuit watch

This latest addition to the Pierre Arpels ladies' watch collection inherits the style of Pierre Arpels. A disc set with the moon and sun rotates once every 24 hours in the large opening at the top of the mother-of-pearl dial with radial engraving, indicating day and night.

This unprecedentedly large day and night mechanism is a poetic expression of the mysteries of the universe. Its disc is crafted from aventurine, the moon and surrounding stars are carved out of diamonds, and the sun is set with yellow sapphires, creating a beautiful and luxurious setting.

38mm diameter, automatic movement, 18KWG case. 19,272,000 yen.

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