Gourmet: Learn from the past and create something new: Kagurazaka's <Nama Soba Ishii> Enjoy exquisite soba noodles and snacks with a kappo feel

This is a popular series in BRUTUS introducing restaurants by theme. This time, the theme is "Soba restaurants represent the town." They have a good selection of sake, thoughtful snacks, and the soba noodles are a perfect finishing touch. A reliable soba restaurant has opened in Kagurazaka. The restaurant has the look of a high-end kappo restaurant, and offers both course meals and à la carte options. A promising new face that reflects the town's character.

photo: Shin-ichi Yokoyama / text: Kei Sasaki

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Fresh Soba Ishii (Kagurazaka)

Enjoy exquisite soba noodles and snacks with a traditional Japanese feel

"I grew up familiar with soba and Japanese cuisine, influenced by my father who worked in the soba industry," says Omori Akiyoshi. After training in soba and Japanese cuisine for around 20 years, he opened his restaurant near Akagi Shrine. The approach to the restaurant, with its stepping stones and well-maintained plants, stands out in a quiet alleyway, creating a refreshing atmosphere. The interior, centered around an L-shaped counter, is reminiscent of a refined kappo restaurant, and is typical of Kagurazaka.

He says that the most important thing when making soba is "not being swayed by rationality, more than technique." He purchases whole buckwheat flour from pesticide-free cultivation, grinds it in a stone mill, and makes it from 100% buckwheat. The restaurant is proud of its fragrant and supple soba noodles. He also limits the number of side dishes to refine the flavor. Even a simple dish like boiled herring is given a mellow sweetness with brown sugar, and dishes like duck loin and marinated tuna are enjoyable with a touch of seasonal vegetables to add color.

The recommended sake is Junmai sake served warm. In addition to the a la carte menu, there is also a "seasonal assortment" that includes five small appetizers, soba noodles, and a sweet treat, so even if you are dining alone you can leisurely enjoy a variety of flavors and sake, and you will be very satisfied.

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