Visiting Osaka's legendary bar, Meijiya, which began in the early Showa period

Every city in Japan has a bar with a unique atmosphere. I'd love to have a drink there someday. Plan your trip around that one bar and get ready to go.

photo: Yoshiki Okamoto, Kunihiro Fukumori / text: M. Terashita

The tin sign that has stood in front of the store since it opened in 1938 (Showa 13) has subtle irregularities that tell of the long history it has seen. Inside, the sound of the grandfather clock's pendulum ticking away the hours and the deep amber-colored lauan wood counter remain the same as when the store first opened. Anyone who finds themselves in a space that is reminiscent of a black-and-white film by Yasujiro Ozu from the Showa era will be sure to feel a sense of adventure.

Although the izakaya was relocated once in 2011, many of the building materials and fixtures have been faithfully transferred, and the interior remains exactly as it was in the past...it exudes a dignified elegance and refinement that has been cultivated over time.

Exterior of Meijiya in Osaka
It's located in a modern mall in a building in front of Abeno Station. However, inside and outside this shop curtain, it is isolated from the surrounding area, creating a dignified atmosphere.

This refined flavor is evident not only in the food but also in the sake. The mackerel served in the sashimi is delivered directly from the fishing port. The refined light dashi, unique to the Kansai region, is perfectly complemented in dishes like rape blossoms dressed in mustard, as well as in simmered tofu. "My 80-year-old mother makes it every day with kelp and bonito," says fourth-generation owner Matsumoto Eiko, who is tending the sake warmer at the counter.

The sake selection includes Akishika and Aramasa, all at very reasonable prices. "We've been stocking Aramasa for about 15 years," he says carefreely. As you touch the many cups and small bowls, what strikes you deeply is the sincerity and honesty of the handcrafted flavors that have been passed down since the Showa era. More than the charm of the space, it is the honesty and integrity of the work that gives Meijiya its beautiful and unwavering "spirit" that has brought it over 80 years of history.

Osaka <Meijiya> Rape blossoms with mustard, Doteyaki
The mustard-dressed rape blossoms are 300 yen, the sushi is 550 yen, and the doteyaki is 500 yen. The counter seats are the best.

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