Visit new bars in Kyoto that tourists haven't discovered yet: Sunbuddy and Apron

Kyoto is a city that attracts people from all over the world and is home to many famous restaurants overflowing with customers. That's why we'd like to focus on newcomers that tourists haven't noticed yet, restaurants that have opened in the last three years or so. Now is the time to relax and mingle with locals in a space that embodies the unique personalities of the restaurant owners, a city unique to Kyoto.

First published in BRUTUS No. 1005, "Travel to Japanese Bars" (published April 1, 2024)

photo: Yoshiko Watanabe / text: Mako Yamato

Kyoto is home to many places where you can have a special experience. Bars are one of them, and there are long-established, famous izakayas that are the ultimate destination for travelers, as well as popular establishments with platinum seats that even Kyoto residents envy. That's why visiting a place beloved by locals and experiencing everyday Kyoto can be an even more precious experience. Here, we'd like to draw your attention to the new faces that have appeared since 2022. These establishments, opened after the COVID-19 pandemic by owners who carefully considered what they value, are truly consistent. They are unique and unpretentious. But the food, drinks, and owners who are full of charm await you.

A daytime izakaya and wine bar, a future favorite just around the corner

Sanbuddy, which opened in an alley in Kawaramachi Marutamachi in 2022, is often full to capacity as soon as it opens at 2 p.m. The owners are Ryosuke and Rika Wakisaka, a married couple who have run popular bars in Kyoto. The couple, who often travel to Osaka as well as Kyoto and enjoy bar hopping, say they created a bar that embodies their ideals.

Owner of Kyoto's Sanbuddy
They don't divide up the work, but work in perfect harmony. It's a pleasure to watch the teamwork that only a married couple can have.

"When I wake up late on the weekends, I often miss lunch. I thought it would be great if there was a place I could go to at times like that," says Ryosuke, who decided to open in the afternoon. "No matter how popular it becomes, a bar is a place you can just drop in to, rather than making a reservation in advance," he believes, and so by not taking reservations until the bar is completely full, he leaves room for people to just drop in if the timing is right.

No matter how good a restaurant is, it's pointless if you can't get in, but the more popular it is, the more difficult it is to get in. Their spirit of overturning this common sense is admirable. Their dishes are based on home cooking, with a twist, and include shumai dumplings that are made to order, Keiko's stewed tail, a recipe made by Ryosuke's mother, and seasonal vegetables and fresh fish, all of which go perfectly with sake.

Among the wide range of alcoholic beverages they stock, including sake, natural wine, and sours, their recommendation is draft beer. Watching the couple skillfully prepare food and drinks in the open kitchen at the counter creates a lively atmosphere. Their desire to "treat guests as if they were inviting friends into their home" brings satisfaction to the heart that goes beyond the food and drink.

Natural wine has become a staple in Kyoto, and Apron is a must-visit for wine lovers. The 12-13 wines available by the glass at any given time are often rare and hard to find.

The owner, Yuki Matsuura, who guides us around, is attentive and skillful. His affection for each bottle is evident in every word, making us want to try them all. Matsuura first encountered natural wine about 15 years ago when he was working as a sommelier at a restaurant.

"When I tried Italian Vodopivets, it was completely different from any wine I had ever tasted. I'll never forget that day," he recalls. What resonated with him so much? "You can feel the background of the person who made the wine. It's the same as music or movies; it has a strong sense of being the work of an individual."

Since then, he has been buying wines with the hope of one day going independent, and now has two cellars full of them. His love for wine is also reflected in his generous offerings by the glass, saying, "The rarer the wine, the more people want to taste it." He says he prefers "deeply flavorful wines that leave you feeling full before you know it, rather than just tasting the deliciousness in one sip."

The food served with the wine is mainly fresh and made with vegetables. The food and the owner are a perfect match for the wine. This bar, which conveys the atmosphere of Kyoto today, also has the freedom to enjoy bar hopping. Sooner or later, tourists will surely flock to these places. I want to be one of the first to visit.

Inside éperon in Kyoto
The counter seating is special, allowing you to enjoy a conversation with Matsuura. In addition to wine, there is also a wide selection of after-dinner drinks such as grappa.

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