Gourmet: A casual, stand-up bar from the famous Shibuya bar Mandegan

BRUTUS' popular series introduces restaurants by theme. This time, the theme is "Fermented Bars Open from 4 PM." Japan, with its locally rooted fermented foods from north to south, is a "fermentation powerhouse" unparalleled in the world. And alcohol is also a fermented product. It goes without saying that they go well together. A popular bar has opened a new establishment with a fermented element. A happy opening at 4 PM.

photo: Shin-ichi Yokoyama / text: Haruka Koshihara

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Mandegan (Shibuya)

A casual, stand-up bar run by a famous bar owner

A younger brother (or perhaps younger sister?) bar has opened on the second floor of the hugely popular Shibuya izakaya, Kotaro. In contrast to the first floor, where it's difficult to get a reservation, this bar has a system where you can just drop in. "We want people to feel free to drop in before dinner or as a second stop, and since we're in a town with lots of cinemas and theaters, we want people to feel free to drop in on the way there too," says owner Kotaro Hayashi.

The store is run by the female staff of Takataro. Led by Yamato Yuna, who has been working there for six years, the staff take turns working behind the counter each week. Each staff member will also bring out their own signature dish, such as pickles.

Hayashi has such a deep knowledge of fermented foods from all over Japan that he has even written a series on the subject. Therefore, in addition to the standard snacks from Takataro, the menu also includes dishes unique to Mandegan that use fermented foods. The fruits of traditional wisdom, such as pizza made with his favorite heshiko (fish roe) and a sour drink made with sake lees and Calpis, come together with Hayashi and his team's sensibilities to create new flavors.

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