Tatsumasa Onuki and Keiji Kaneko's My Rules for Denim Jackets

Denim jacket lovers, who all value their own denim jackets, are a staple for everyone, but we asked Santa Set founder Tatsumasa Onuki and creative director Keiji Kaneko about their favorite pieces. We also looked into their personal rules that are essential to their style.

BRUTUS's "GOOD STYLE for Mr. BRUTUS Spring Standards. 2024 S/S," in which this article is featured, is now on sale.

photo: Go Tanabe / edit: Keiichiro Miyata / props: AWABEES

Tatsumasa Onuki's My Rules

Denim jackets and clothing with the same history and style will blend in well.

Denim has always been a mysterious thing to me; even before I became interested in fashion, I considered it something cool. So, although it may sound a bit dramatic, a denim jacket is formal attire for me. The model I choose depends on the occasion, the people I'm meeting, and the weather. For example, if I'm having a casual dinner with friends, I'll wear a faded light blue. On rainy days, I would never wear indigo, which transfers color.

For example, if you wear a 1950s denim jacket from Wrangler, the brand that originated in the Western world, you can pair it with clothing from the same era or Native American-inspired pieces. By coordinating in this way, you can make combinations that may seem mismatched come together naturally.

Wrangler
Wrangler
This denim jacket, "111MJ," made between 1955 and 1957 by Wrangler, the world's first designer denim brand, is commonly known as "the first." I bought it because I loved the creases on the elbows, the "honeycomb" pattern, and the natural shading. Not only is it rare, but it was also a favorite of John Lennon during his lifetime, making it a highly sought-after model in the vintage market.

Coordinated Items

Memorial pants and a studded belt featuring Native American motifs representing the birthplace of Wrangler. A shirt from Otsubo Shirts. Leather shoes from Alden.
In the Onuki style, it goes well with the Wrangler.
The memorial pants and studded belt feature Native American motifs that represent the birthplace of Wrangler. The shirt from Otsubo Shirts and the leather shoes from Alden are symbolic of the 1950s.

Keiji Kaneko's My Rules

Choose the right size to create a look that goes beyond the basics

Unlike jeans, which are easy to wear every day, denim jackets with pockets and other designs on the outside have a striking presence. Because they are so striking, they are only worn for one or two days each month. They are extremely effective when you want to change your mood. In particular, oversized ones, while the design itself is standard, have an unbalanced pocket position and proportions, which gives them a strong sense of individuality.

Considering that its roots lie in workwear, I use dress items as the core of my outfit to avoid it being too loose. I also make sure to wear dress socks in case I'm sitting down. This is my recipe for wearing a denim jacket well. Sunglasses and a cap are like the seasoning that gives any outfit its own unique style.

TUF-NUT
TUF-NUT
This 1950s coverall is from Tuffnuts, a long-established workwear brand from the American West. It's a piece that symbolizes the good old American classic. "It's in the best condition for me, and if it had aged any more or if it had been in better condition, I probably wouldn't have bought it," he said, falling in love with it at first sight and purchasing it at a secondhand clothing store in Fukuoka.

Coordinated Items

Right: A vintage shirt from A. Sulka & Company, a long-established luxury boutique in New York, and a striped shirt ordered by Niceness from Salvatore Piccolo, a hand-sewn shirt maker in Naples.
A small collar makes it easy to wear without a tie.
Left: A striped shirt ordered by Niceness from Salvatore Piccolo, a hand-sewn shirt manufacturer in Naples. Right: A vintage shirt from A. Sulka & Company, a long-established luxury boutique in New York.
Kosuke Adam, Norio Haga, Keiji Kaneko, Tatsumasa Onuki, Kyosuke Seki, and Yasunori Nakatake
From left: Kosuke Adam, Haga Norio, Kaneko Keiji, Onuki Tatsumasa, Seki Kyosuke, and Nakatake Yasunori.

SHARE ON

FEATURED MOVIES
Featured Videos

BRUTUS
OFFICIAL SNS
Brutus Official SNS

FEATURED MOVIES
Featured Videos