The town we headed to for our second bar was Haruyoshi, Fukuoka. Attracted by the dimly lit record jacket, we cautiously climbed the dimly lit stairs to find Deracine. Instead of a nameplate at the entrance, there was a warning sign: "Please remove your shoes here." That's right, BAR Deracine is a record bar where shoes are strictly prohibited.
I timidly peeked inside and saw that it was a tatami-style venue with a low counter like a teahouse, no DJ booth, and just a single, well-worn MICRO turntable.
The dimly lit interior of the bar resembled the shadows on the cover of Joni Mitchell's "Blue," and the guitar duo Yamagen, consisting of Yoshiyuki Sahashi and Hirokazu Ogura, played modestly, enveloping the wooden Japanese space. It's strange how being low to the ground makes you feel calmer.
The owner, Yuki Fukada, is a famous bar owner known affectionately as Gajiro in the Shinjuku 3-Chome area, where industry insiders and outsiders gather, including those from MARTHA and Bar Pain. He left 3-Chome when his mother fell ill and traveled around the country. After 30 years in the bar business, he retired temporarily. After that, he spent his days fishing, but he couldn't resist the allure of the bar and returned, eventually settling down in Fukuoka. A true deraciné (rootless man).
Although Fukada has an overwhelming knowledge of music and a record collection, he doesn't make a big statement here at BAR Deracine, but rather plays a supporting role to create a comfortable atmosphere.
"In the past, I had a strong style of saying, 'Just shut up and listen to the song that's playing,' but that's changed. I was also tired of the traditional record bar style. As a bartender, I don't want to work in a bar where the only connection is through music. I want to be as casual as possible."
It's true that there's no mixer, and if the mood is right, they'll even have flowing water. That said, the charm of the bar lies in the rich, emotional sound that flows from the legendary Bose 901 speakers, said to have been created to replicate the acoustics of Carnegie Hall. The Joni Mitchell recording of "Blue" you hear here is one of a kind, thanks to its live sound reproduction. The elegant intro to "California" still rings in my ears.
"Even though I no longer worry about the small details like the customer's tastes or the transitions in the music selection, music still does a good job of starting a conversation. When I was in Shinjuku Sanchome, I was told, 'Your bar is only good for you, isn't it?' And it was certainly true. But now I'm happy if it can just be a little break before people head home. I like the feeling that after enjoying good drinks and good music, they'll come again. Maybe that's why I continue to run the bar."
This is the ultimate listening bar paradise. If you're in Fukuoka, stop by on your way home from work, or if you're traveling, drop by on the night before you head home, feeling a little sad to leave.









