BRUTUS Watch Brand Studies Vol.41 <Oris>

This series will explain each important brand you need to know about from the world of mechanical watches, which is deeper than the ocean. Taking into account the history and characteristics, we will introduce one of the brand's iconic "masterpieces" as well as one of the noteworthy "new releases" that have been released over the past year. With each lecture, you will learn more about watches. Watch journalist Norio Takagi will be the lecturer. The 41st installment will be about Oris.

text: Norio Takagi / illustration: Shinji Abe

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Switzerland, the inheritor of mechanical watch culture

The brand policy is "Go Your Own Way." And in product development, they are committed to "luxury that fits your means." Oris is known among watch enthusiasts as a brand that makes mechanical watches accessible to everyone.

Founded in 1904 in Hölstein, located in the lush Waldenburg Valley in northwestern Switzerland, the brand name comes from the name of the stream that flows through the village. The company is still headquartered in the same place where it was founded, and this year marks the 120th anniversary of its founding. Throughout its history, Oris has made a significant contribution to the preservation of the Swiss mechanical watch culture.

In 1956, Oris advocated for the repeal of the Swiss Watch Law, which prohibited the use of new watch technology without government permission, winning the independence of the watch industry. Furthermore, in 1982, when the current system was established, Oris decided to specialize solely in mechanical watches, despite being in the midst of the quartz crisis, thus preserving the torch of culture.

At the time, mechanical watches were considered luxury items only for hobbyists. However, Oris paved the way for a re-evaluation of mechanical watches by offering high-quality, affordable models. In particular, the Big Crown Pointer Date, which was released in 1984 and modeled after the 1938 model, was a huge hit worldwide and remains an icon of the brand to this day.

It is rare for a watch brand to produce only mechanical movements. In 2014, they revived their own in-house movements, with an ultra-long power reserve of 10 days. Since then, they have developed a series of unique technologies, including wear-resistant automatic winding mechanisms and highly anti-magnetic movements. Even with high-performance in-house movements, Oris has maintained its signature price range, which is possible because they are an independent brand. Oris always goes their own way.

[Signature: Masterpiece] Big Crown Pointer Date Caliber 403

An icon with over 85 years of history

Big Crown Pointer Date Caliber 403

The brand's iconic "Pointer Date" model, inherited from the 1938 model, is equipped with an in-house movement. The small case and small seconds hand create a distinctively retro atmosphere. The large crown, from which the collection takes its name, is a functional beauty created to make it easier for pilots to operate.

The automatic movement, Cal. 403, as the model name suggests, is designed to operate efficiently with little torque, achieving a long power reserve of 5 days. It also boasts excellent magnetic resistance and requires no maintenance for up to 10 years, making it extremely practical. This is a watch that allows you to experience Oris' history and technical expertise.
Diameter 38mm. Automatic. Stainless steel case. 566,500 yen.

[New] ProPilot X Caliber 400 Laser

Changing dial colors

ProPilot X Caliber 400 Laser

This latest professional pilot's watch features a lightweight titanium case housing the company's center-second automatic movement, Cal. 400. The dial is also made of titanium, and approximately 6,000 vertical grooves have been laser-processed to manipulate the reflection of light, creating a unique texture that changes color depending on the viewing angle.

The logo, lettering, and indexes on the dial are also laser-processed. This technology was developed in collaboration with a research institute under the Swiss Federal Institute of Technology. Through the power of science, a completely new color dial was born.
39mm diameter. Automatic. Titanium case. 814,000 yen.

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