BRUTUS Watch Brand Studies Vol.40 Girard-Perregaux

This series will explain each important brand you need to know about from the world of mechanical watches, which is deeper than the ocean. Taking into account the history and characteristics, we will introduce one of the brand's iconic "masterpieces" as well as one of the noteworthy "new releases" that have been released over the past year. With each lecture, you will learn more about watches. Watch journalist Norio Takagi will be the lecturer. The 40th installment will be Girard-Perregaux.

text: Norio Takagi / illustration: Shinji Abe

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A prestigious brand with a beautiful complex mechanism

In the 19th century, there were fewer than ten watchmakers with the skills to create tourbillons. One of those very few was Constant Girard, the founder of Girard-Perregaux. He devised a structure in which the parts of a tourbillon movement are supported by three parallel bridges, endowing the complex mechanism with a unique aesthetic. This "Tourbillon with Three Gold Bridges" won a gold medal at the 1889 Paris World's Fair, and Girard-Perregaux became known around the world.

In 1906, the company acquired Potts, which originated from the workshop of Jean-François Potts, a watchmaker whose exquisite and beautiful timepieces captivated royalty and aristocrats. This merger of the technical expertise and creativity of two leading Swiss watchmakers at the time has been passed down to future generations.

Girard-Perregaux has earned its reputation as a prestigious brand by continuing to innovate while preserving traditional watchmaking techniques and creating new forms of beauty. In 1966, they were the first to realize a high-beat movement with a balance wheel that vibrates at 10 vibrations per second, revolutionizing high-precision technology. They also developed the first Swiss-made quartz movement in-house in 1970. The following year, they adopted a quartz oscillator with a frequency of 32,768Hz (2 vibrations per second), which remains the standard in the watch industry today.

In terms of mechanical movements, the company also reproduced the "Tourbillon with Three Gold Bridges" pocket watch created by its founder in 1982, and nine years later installed the same mechanism and structure in a wristwatch. Today, Girard-Perregaux offers a wide range of in-house mechanical movements, from simple three-hand automatic movements to complex mechanisms such as tourbillons and minute repeaters. Each of them is imbued with the beauty of traditional hand-finishing, and has established a solid position in the luxury watch market.

[Signature: Masterpiece] Laureato 42MM

A revival of the '70s style icon

Laureato 42MM: A Girard-Perregaux classic

This luxury sports watch, which was first introduced in 1975 with an in-house quartz movement and later replaced by a mechanical movement and continued until the early 2000s, was revived in 2017. Details that characterize the watch's appearance, such as the stepped bezel with overlapping circles and octagons, the Clous de Paris decoration on the dial, and the "GP" index at 12 o'clock, have been carried over from the original model.

It features a slim, in-house automatic movement. As a result, the case is kept thin, enhancing its elegant appearance. Its 100m water resistance makes it extremely reliable for everyday use. It's sporty and elegant, and goes well with both casual and formal wear, yet is also robust. It's the perfect everyday watch.

Diameter 42mm. Manual winding. Stainless steel case. Price: 1,881,000 yen.

[New] Neo Constant Escapement

Unique high-precision mechanism utilizing cutting-edge technology

Girard-Perregaux Neo Constant Escapement

The purple and blue parts visible in the opening at the bottom of the dial are made of silicon. Power from the mainspring bends the thin blade that runs horizontally through the center, and the constant torque generated when the blade returns to its original position drives the balance wheel, achieving ultra-high precision.

This major invention, which controls energy and symbolizes the Maison's outstanding innovative spirit, was born in 2013. The latest model equipped with this mechanism has a new design that makes the main gears of the movement visible on the dial, giving it an even bolder look.

45mm diameter. Automatic. Titanium case. Price: 13,101,000 yen.

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