What does trad mean to you? We asked 22 people, including Keiji Kaneko, about their thoughts on trad – Part 1

Brutus' idea of "traditional" includes traditional styles such as American and British, as well as personal rules that have been cultivated over time. We asked 22 adults about their "traditional" styles. Read the second part here.

text & edit: Minori Okajima, Shigeo Kanno / cooperation: Momoko Ikeda, Ko Ueoka / prop: AWABEES

Shinsuke Kojima (KAPTAIN SUNSHINE designer)

Q1

What do you think "traditional style" is?

A1

Traditional yet free. I think the appeal is that it's timeless, yet can be adapted to suit the mood of the moment. If you think of something as traditional, new ideas and thoughts will emerge within that category. A gray flannel suit, blue denim, and side-gored boots. My own version of traditional style is combining my core items with vintage clothing.

Q2

Who do you consider to be "trad"?

A2

Cary Grant, Woody Allen, Paul Weller, Jean-Paul Belmondo, Jiro Shirasu.

Q3

Please rephrase the word "trad" in your own words.

A3

To be free to choose, learn, and continue to evolve beyond borders.

Shinsuke Nakata (Unlikely designer)

Q1

What do you think "traditional style" is?

A1

My style is to add a layered element to American traditional. Layering a windbreaker or down vest under a navy blazer, or matching sports socks with leather shoes. My go-to is to stick to the fundamental rules of traditional style while adding something different.

Q2

Who do you consider to be "trad"?

A2

I admire Dustin Hoffman. I remember him wearing a tweed jacket in the movie "The Graduate." It was so fresh, even the size balance was so good, it's still burned into my memory. I learned the Ivy League look from him. Tom Sachs, a contemporary artist with a foundation in American traditional style, also has a cool, unique interpretation.

Q3

Please rephrase the word "trad" in your own words.

A3

I think trad is classic. It's a style built on traditional items passed down from generation to generation. Because the rules are firmly established, small changes are made in line with the times. Because there are things that don't change, the focus is on new things.

Hiroo Shimada (Barber at BARBER BOYS)

Q1

What do you think "traditional style" is?

A1

Dressing in vintage clothing in the same way as back then is traditional, but I don't think it's fashion. I think traditional means being conscious of wearing 1950s items in a way that somehow connects to the modern era. For example, adding a little bit of your own color to a traditional style. This also applies to the hairstyles I suggest to my clients as a barber, and it's one of the most important things I consider.

Q2

Who do you consider to be "trad"?

A2

Photographer Bruce Weber. His photographs have a timeless coolness to them. I also like how he respects the good old days and elevates them to the modern era.

Q3

Please rephrase the word "trad" in your own words.

A3

From the 1940s, when minimalist clothes were made with every detail having meaning, to the American style that reached its height of glory in the 1950s, these are my favourite eras and countries, and are at the core of my style.

KENSHIN (Hair Stylist)

Q1

What do you think "traditional style" is?

A1

A clothing style that conveys reliability and cleanliness. I think that clothes have a big influence on people. Among them, Ivy League style, which is typified by traditional styles, is a fashion that can look cool without losing its intelligence even if it is dressed a little casually. Nowadays, free-spirited fashion that is not bound by genre is mainstream, but having one traditional item adds depth to your look.

For me, Boston-style glasses are the best. It all started with a self-portrait called "Triple Self-Portrait" by Norman Rockwell, an artist I loved when I was in junior high school. I was fascinated by the way he wore a sax blue shirt, baggy chinos, and Boston-style glasses. I have fond memories of deliberately reading books in the dark to lower my eyesight so I could wear my prescription glasses.

Q2

Who do you consider to be "trad"?

A2

John F. Kennedy. I remember watching him on TV as a child and being amazed at his unconventional style, thinking, "He was the president, but he wore sunglasses in public!" But there's something about his refined yet traditional style.

Q3

Please rephrase the word "trad" in your own words.

A3

A fashion style worn by educated people.

"The Best of Norman Rockwell" by Tom Rockwell / Selected
A collection of N. Rockwell's art and his favorite glasses.

Ryo Kashiwazaki (Hender Scheme designer)

Q1

What do you think "traditional style" is?

A1

I think the appeal of traditional fashion is that it values the history, origins, and context of clothing, for better or worse. I don't think too hard about style, so I have almost no rules. If I have to find one, I just have to be a little concerned about whether my own personal tastes are acceptable in the context of fashion. If I don't mind if they're not acceptable, then I don't mind.

Q2

Who do you consider to be "trad"?

A2

It's just a feeling, but it's the film director Hirano Katsuyuki.

Q3

Please rephrase the word "trad" in your own words.

A3

The concept of "trad" itself seems very Japanese. Perhaps it is precisely because it is not deeply rooted in Japan, or because it is not something that people are directly involved in, that so many people admire and enjoy it.

Olivier Saillard (J.M. WESTON Artistic Image & Culture Director)

Q1

What do you think "traditional style" is?

A1

Traditional style means sticking to practical clothing rather than fashionable, and in fact, my style hasn't changed in the last 10-15 years.

For example, the pair of trousers I ordered from Maison Gabriel on Mont Thabor in Paris; a faded vintage tie from the 1960s; and Caron's Pour en Homme perfume, an essential part of my wardrobe. These are timeless and timeless pieces.

Q2

Who do you consider to be "trad"?

A2

It's hard to narrow it down to just one, but I think Marcel Duchamp, Nicolas de Staël, and William Burroughs are all chic, simple, and cool in their understated clothing. I love the way artists dress. I'm drawn to rolled-up sleeves and faded pants more than flashy logos or motifs.

Q3

Please rephrase the word "trad" in your own words.

A3

The contrast between newness and permanence. I believe that the more traditional items such as jackets, shirts and pants bear the marks of time, the more noble they become.

Mr. SLOWBOY (Illustrator)

Q1

What do you think "traditional style" is?

A1

I believe that being traditional includes the meanings of "honest," "regular," "classic," "reliable," and "fun." It's not just about clothing, but also about the values that reflect that style. "Quietly standing out" may seem like an oxymoron, but that's the kind of traditional style I aim for.

Q2

Who do you consider to be "trad"?

A2

Illustrator Kazuo Hozumi and his book "The Ivy League Picture Book Encyclopedia" have had a major influence on my own fashion and art style, and I learned how traditional style originated in Japan. Designer Jeremy Hackett, nicknamed "Mr. Classic," is also an essential figure when talking about traditional style. He is a master of the rules, protocol, and etiquette of everyday life as a gentleman.

On the other hand, he has a free-thinking approach to fashion. He values updated traditions, not nostalgia. For example, he might choose to use patchwork for the buttonholes on a jacket collar. He is a professional who knows tradition and adds a playful touch.

Q3

Please rephrase the word "trad" in your own words.

A3

Respect and be grateful for tradition, while continuing to evolve without being confined to history.

Star Slowboy Illustration
An illustration of Kazuo Hozumi.

Tatsumasa Onuki (Owner of SANTASSÉ)

Q1

What do you think "traditional style" is?

A1

It's a style that mixes British Savile Row style with American denim and casual items, and expresses a French flair while focusing on American traditional style. In my case, I always incorporate brands and items with a traditional background into my styling.

In terms of brands, there are Henry Poole and John Lobb from the UK, Hermes and Charvet from France, and Brooks Brothers and Alden from the US. Tradition is the perfect way to express one's personality, and that is its appeal.

Q2

Who do you consider to be "trad"?

A2

Politician Winston Churchill is a representative figure of cigars and Savile Row. Actor Serge Gainsbourg is the man who established the esprit-filled French trad style. Actor and musician Bing Crosby is the man who elevated denim into fashion and tradition.

Q3

Please rephrase the word "trad" in your own words.

A3

It is the best way to express one's personality and is like a presence that creates a standard for judging oneself as a person.

Ouigi Theodore (Designer of THE BROOKLYN CIRCUS)

Q1

What do you think "traditional style" is?

A1

"Trad" is a word that means base or foundation. It's something that serves as a standard, but doesn't necessarily have to be done by set rules. However, you need to know the rules in order to break them. There should always be room for personal interpretation and evolution. I think it's more fun if you can expand and explore after having a base. In that sense, hip hop, reggae, and jazz, which are all based on themes of improvisation and change, are also traditional to me.

Q2

Who do you consider to be "trad"?

A2

It's not a person, but is that okay? The movie "Cooley High" had a huge impact on me. It was a pivotal work that sparked my interest in traditional style. Jason Jules' book "Black Ivy: A Revolt in Style" and the various films by Spike Lee really helped raise my interest in Black Ivy style.

Q3

Please rephrase the word "trad" in your own words.

A3

It may be classic, deliberate, disciplined, very uniform, historical, and somewhat exclusive, but we are trying to change that image and make it more inclusive. Don't you think that would make trad more appealing?

Visuals from the movie "Khoolie High"
The film Coolie High was released in 1975.

Keiji Kaneko (Fashion Director)

Q1

What do you think "traditional style" is?

A1

It's the foundation of everything, so I think you can't talk about fashion without knowing about tradition. It's precisely because there are rules that the fun of doing something unconventional comes from, and that's the appeal of fashion. The best part is choosing items that are a little different from the norm, and then coordinating them in a way that looks normal.

This Arnis duffle coat is a traditional piece for me. I found it in a second-hand clothing store in Paris, and I was drawn to the fact that it is extremely basic and unlike Arnis. Other traditional items for me include the John Smedley crew neck cardigan, Champion half-zip sweatshirt, JM Weston's Yacht, Lunor glasses, and Cartier's 18K Santos bracelet.

Q2

Who do you consider to be "trad"?

A2

Charles III is a man of ultra-orthodox traditional style. His environmental activities, support for traditional industries, and his commitment to repairing and using things for a long time go beyond fashion; his personal style perfectly embodies traditional style.

Q3

Please rephrase the word "trad" in your own words.

A3

A traditional style and the foundation of men's fashion.

Arnis duffle coat, John Smedley crew neck cardigan, Arnis duffle coat, John Smedley crew neck cardigan, Champion half-zip sweatshirt, J.M. Weston "Yacht" and Lunor glasses.jpg
Kaneko's traditional items, including an Arnis duffle coat and other memorable items. Photo: Hiromichi Uchida

Taisuke Nakamuro (CEO of Murofis, PR Director, etc.)

Q1

What do you think "traditional style" is?

A1

Ever since I was in my twenties, working as a salesperson at a select shop, I have been exposed to and learned about traditional items every day. For this reason, I understand trad to mean "traditional" as the word "traditional" suggests. My rule is to incorporate clearly traditional items such as tweed jackets and regimental ties, and to adhere to the original traditional style. I think the appeal of trad is its universal approach to styling, which is to "have fun within the rules."

Q2

Who do you consider to be "trad"?

A2

Cary Grant, Gregory Peck, Charles III, Alain Delon, Serge Gainsbourg.

Q3

Please rephrase the word "trad" in your own words.

A3

A traditional style with a cultural background.

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