"Custard at a coffee shop is a scoop of happiness." Rina Namba recommends famous Tokyo shops and sweet treats

Custard-based dishes go well with coffee or tea, and are a must-try at coffee shops, says Rina Namba, a coffee shop connoisseur. The sweets at these five shops in particular are so exquisite that you'll want to go out of your way to try them.

First published in BRUTUS No. 931, "I love custard, after all." (Published January 15, 2021)

photo: Tomo Ishiwatari / text: Emi Suzuki

A cup of custard at a coffee shop is a scoop of happiness

Text by Rina Namba (2nd Director of the Tokyo Coffee Shop Research Institute)

I think the best thing about a coffee shop is that it has always been there, welcoming you with an unchanging atmosphere no matter when you visit. The interior, built in the Showa era, is lavishly decorated with intricate details that were created without compromise, pursuing coolness and comfort. The space is like a treasure chest filled with the owner's favorite things, and no two are alike, so it's captivating to look at.

Not only that, but the thoughtfulness and kindness of the people who run the shop, and the carefully prepared menu items, are all appealing, and the unique character of this place has continued to attract customers through the ages. Menu items unique to coffee shops include spaghetti Napolitana, omelet rice, chocolate parfait, cream soda... Also available are gorgeously presented pudding ala mode and cream puffs, the perfect accompaniment to coffee.

Although it may not be as showy as pure white fresh cream or colorful fruits, custard cream is made from egg yolks, milk, sugar, plain flour, vanilla extract, etc., and its fluffy yellow appearance and soft texture are comforting. When you put this gentle-tasting food in your mouth, you always feel calm, no doubt because you can sense the warmth of it being made using the same method over and over again.

As you scoop out the pudding and cream spoonfully, you feel fulfilled, as if you are gently savoring the small joys of everyday life.

Louvre Royal Pudding

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The shop opened in 1950 as a bakery. Later, as they added more Western-style sweets, they changed the name in 1966 and added a cafe space. The "Royal Pudding" has a kingly presence with the pudding in the center surrounded by seasonal fruits and cream. "It's a firm pudding, just like the old days, with a simple, delicious taste. The pudding is sold on its own for 200 yen, and can also be taken away."

Higashinakano Louvre Royal Pudding

"Well-Tempered" French Toast

This dish is modeled after the French toast that appears in the movie "Kramer vs. Kramer." Pain de Mie bread is soaked in an egg mixture made with professional-grade "Old-Time Flavor Eggs," milk, and sugar, and then baked with plenty of Calpis butter. "The quality of the ingredients really comes through. When it starts to bake, the aroma of butter fills the store, really stimulating your appetite."

Gakugei University "Well-Tempered" French Toast
900 yen (weekdays only).

Tricolore Main Store Eclair

This eclair is a new reproduction of the signature product from when the shop was founded in 1936. "After an order is placed, the choux pastry is warmed, filled with custard and served. We appreciate that thoughtfulness." The custard, flavored with vanilla beans and cooked with butter, is rich yet melts in your mouth. It comes in a set of two, plain and chocolate-covered, and garnished with crushed almonds.

Ginza Tricolore Main Store Eclair
650 yen.

Heckeln special jumbo pudding

The jumbo pudding, which is 2.5 times the size of a regular pudding, has been a specialty since the shop opened half a century ago. "The caramel here is number one. The owner, Mori Shizuo, slowly simmers the sugar over low heat for over an hour, waiting for the moment when it shines, resulting in a consistency like no other!" Don't miss the skill of the owner as he removes the pudding from the mold with a snap.

Shinbashi Heckeln's special jumbo pudding
400 yen.

Furuseto Coffee Shop: Furuseto Original Cream Puffs

The mound of custard, mixed with mascarpone cheese, is topped with a rich, light flavor while keeping the sweetness to a minimum. "The custard has a mature taste, with the flavors of rum and cheese. The balance with the chewy texture of the warm choux pastry is exquisite." The plate is also adorable, with squirrels and other animals trying to take a bite (?).

Furuseto Coffee Shop's original cream puffs
550 yen.

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