Hirofumi Kurino visits FOOTWORKS, a specialty store that offers custom-made insoles

Hirofumi Kurino has seen many bespoke clothing and shoe manufacturing sites due to his work. He was intrigued when he heard there was a specialty store that could make custom insoles, so he decided to visit the store right away.

photo: Kiichi Fukuda / text: Mari Matsubara

Hirofumi Kurino

Nice to meet you. Can I sit here?

Ken Mori

Please put your luggage down. Is this your first time ordering custom insoles?

Kurino

Yes. I didn't even know such a store existed. But I've been buying various insoles from the market for quite some time now and using different ones depending on the shoes I'm wearing. It's just my own style, though.

From left: FOOTWORKS owners Mori Ken and Kurino Hirofumi.

forest

Have you ever felt unwell?

Kurino

To tell you the truth, I used to suffer a lot from lower back pain and sciatica. But I discovered Qigong 12 years ago and it got a lot better. I learned firsthand that the internal organs and shoulders are connected by meridians, and that the soles of your feet that touch the ground are important. That's why I've been looking forward to coming here.

Today I'm wearing the New Balance 990. I love how comfortable it is to walk in. I get either a size 9 or a size 9.5. I buy either one on a case-by-case basis and adjust the insoles accordingly.

forest

You always pay attention to your feet.

Kurino

I have a pair of loafers from ALDEN that I bought 34 years ago when I founded UNITED ARROWS, and I've been wearing them ever since, repairing the outer heels as they wear down.

forest

Now, let's get started by taking a footprint. Please place one foot on this footprint printer and stand on both feet.

Kurino

You can take impressions of your feet on paper without getting them dirty. Where is this made?

forest

It says it was made in West Germany, so it must have been made before the reunification of East and West Germany. It's an analog tool, but it's easy to use, so I like using it.

Minami Aoyama FOOTWORKS: Place one foot at a time on a West German-made footprint printer and take impressions of both feet on paper.
When you come to the store, you first place each foot on a West German-made footprint printer, which takes impressions of both feet on paper, allowing you to see the balance of your weight on the soles of your feet.

Kurino

Mori-san, what can you tell from my footprint?

forest

First, you can see that more weight is on the right foot. The big toe and heel are darker, and the middle is slightly weaker. To put it bluntly, the front and back of the foot are like a seesaw, and it seems like the foot isn't very good at balancing.

Kurino

Oh, I see.

forest

Also, it's ideal for there to be no color between the big toe and the ball of the foot, meaning that it's not in contact with the ground, but in Kurino's case, there is a little color there, which means that her foot is slightly apart in the direction of travel.

Kurino

You can tell this immediately by looking at the footprint.

forest

No, actually, when Kurino-san came into the store, I watched her standing and walking, and I had a pretty good idea. Taking her footprints was a way of confirming that answer.

Kurino

Is that so? Amazing.

Inside Footworks in Minami-Aoyama: Making insoles while talking with customers
Insoles are made while chatting with customers in an industrial atmosphere in a store with GRAS lamps and other fixtures.

Insoles guide your toes into the correct position

forest

The purpose of making insoles is to help the body stand upright and walk straight. Most people have developed long-standing habits that prevent them from properly placing their weight on the soles of their feet. The correct way to walk is to stand with the index toes of both feet parallel and with your feet pointing straight in the direction of travel, but most people's feet tend to turn outward.

If your feet are twisted in the direction you walk, your knees, hip joints, pelvis, internal organs, spine, and even neck will all be twisted, which can cause back pain and migraines.

Kurino

So, isn't it better to stand like a ballerina?

forest

This is not a recommended way to walk. If the tires of a car were angled outwards, they would twist with each revolution, eventually damaging the car.

Kurino

I see, that's an easy-to-understand analogy.

forest

However, it is almost impossible to change the way you distribute your weight and walk, which have been ingrained in your body, just by being conscious of it. Insoles are a tool that can correct this. Now, let's actually make the insoles by looking at the impression of Kurino's foot that we took earlier.

Kurino

What brand is the base insole?

forest

These were ordered from Germany. The general curve of the sole of the foot was already in place, but the parts to be added to guide Kurino's foot into the correct position were cut out of foam rubber sheet, attached with glue, and then sanded down with a grinder.

After a trial period and adjustments, it was completed on the third visit.

Kurino

Just by looking at the footprint, you can determine how much and where to add parts. Where did you learn this method?

forest

I follow in my father's footsteps.

Kurino

Does your father have the same job?

forest

That's right. My mother had a lot of physical discomfort, so my father took her to the chiropractor every day. While watching the other patients, my father noticed that they were in good posture right after treatment, but by the time they reached the parking lot, they had reverted to their previous bad posture, and he thought that it was probably because of their shoes or the way they were walking.

From there, my father taught himself how to make insoles, and after much trial and error, he arrived at the best shape.He then made it his job, and now he also makes insoles for athletes.

Kurino

That's great.

forest

The insoles we make today will not be brought to their best condition right away. If we start with a finished insole, it may cause discomfort or pain to your body. First, we will have you get used to the insoles we make today, and then you will come back in about a month for fine adjustments. This process will be repeated until the insoles are complete by your third visit.

Kurino

It's like a temporary tooth that dentists use.

forest

Place the insole you just finished carving on the bottom of your foot. Now try standing up.

Kurino

Ah, it feels different from before.

forest

Today, I'm raising my heels a little to match the heels of the sneakers that Kurino-san is wearing. How does it feel? It's easier to naturally put weight on your toes. Can you see how your shoulders and chest are opening up as well?

Kurino

I know! I feel like I've grown taller.

forest

Try putting this insole into your sneakers.

Kurino

You put it on top of the insole that was originally in the sneakers.

forest

Now that we've set it up, let's put on our sneakers and take a walk.

Kurino

Wow. It's so refreshing, like seeing humans walk on two legs for the first time (laughs).

forest

Stretch your legs straight in the direction of travel. Your stride on the right is a little larger, so try taking a larger step on the left. Look into the distance and swing your arms to stabilize your upper body. It's a good idea to walk with the image of pushing off the ground with your thumb and index finger.

Kurino

I'm definitely feeling different. I'm a naturally positive person, but it seems like my mood has become even more positive (laughs).

forest

I think that improving your walking style will have a positive effect on your mental health.

Kurino

It's been about 150 years since the average Japanese person started wearing shoes on a daily basis, right? This means that the history of shoes is much shorter than in the West, so perhaps our feet are not used to them. However, standing and walking straight is important when wearing Western clothes, so insoles are extremely important.

Renovating every two years builds long-lasting relationships between the store and its customers

Kurino

Can these insoles be used in other shoes?

forest

Boots, sneakers, and lace-up shoes with heels slightly higher than the toes can be used. However, loafers, which don't have a high heel, are not suitable.

Kurino

Is it also effective for bunions?

forest

One customer has been using our insoles for two years and says that the pain from his bunion has completely disappeared and his sensitivity to cold has also been cured. It seems that the symptoms have been alleviated because it makes it easier to use his toes.

Kurino

How long will the insoles last once made?

forest

It takes about two years. We keep the footprints here, and then we take a new footprint after two years and make a new pair.

Kurino

After two years, your body will age, you may get sick, and the condition of your feet will surely change. It's great that taking your footprints isn't just a one-time thing, it's an ongoing relationship with the store. And footprint also means "footprint." Taking footprints regularly means leaving a mark on your life...that's kind of cool.

forest

Normally, the store owner would say "thank you" to the customer, but ever since I was a child I'd seen customers say to my father, "Thanks to you, I'm feeling better, thank you," and I wanted to be like that someday.

Kurino

Being able to communicate this directly in-store is one of the joys of offline shopping. Thank you for today. See you in a month!

Bespoke shoes designed by FOOTWORKS owner Mori and made by shoemakers
Mori designs the bespoke shoes, which are then made by a shoemaker. "We want people to wear leather shoes for their health," says Kurino.

Custom-made insoles. FOOTWORKS is changing the concept of insoles.

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